Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Done the sneaky mod haha

Does help get rid of the shuffling at low throttle %s

A member on here craved is his name did mine

It does smooth out the airflow of the 2 turbo outlets though.... that's why nismo have a piping kit that does the same thing.

Okay drag day 2011, lined up Sloane 7 times and beat him every time....I had, stock 26, -9's running 290-300AWKW full tank 1600 odd kgs, he had 32GTR 347AWKW, cams, turbos similar to 2530's but a bit laggier, nismo copper twin, and weighed 116KG less than my 34.

I beat him because the -9's came on earlier when launching off the line and came onto boost faster after changing gears. Even with his lighter, more powerfull car he got beat. The video shows that area under the curve. Peak power is easy....

I smiled when he said he couldn't believe I kept beating him and said the numbers just don't add up. I explained and he understood.

Now he's going -5's for that higher HP goal, I'm building his new engine, still a stock stroke RB26DETT, so I guess he might be better off now with the -5's but it still won't be as responsive....each to their own I guess.

I'll aim for 330WKW at 20-22PSI once new twin plate and tune done and see where we stand.:thumbsup:

I smiled when he said he couldn't believe I kept beating him and said the numbers just don't add up. I explained and he understood.

Average power win's in most cases and you have proved it even on the drag strip. Some people just dont understand this. The 'peaky' curve feels faster, but isn't in the real world. RP cars are a classic example of this.

Average power win's in most cases and you have proved it even on the drag strip. Some people just dont understand this. The 'peaky' curve feels faster, but isn't in the real world. RP cars are a classic example of this.

You know @ Drags it's a different story! :domokun:

The ONLY reason i was faster than you @ Drag Battle was because i was doing 1.5-1.6 60fts. Otherwise even with your laggy setup, you would have pegged me with ~40rwkw more.

Cannot beat outright power in that situation.

You know @ Drags it's a different story! :domokun:

The ONLY reason i was faster than you @ Drag Battle was because i was doing 1.5-1.6 60fts. Otherwise even with your laggy setup, you would have pegged me with ~40rwkw more.

Cannot beat outright power in that situation.

In the semi's? I was running on 5 cyl. It feels like it takes away 150kw. I just watched you walk away. So shit. Here we are on DVD and I loose to you! haha :whistling: . Great weekend either way!

In the semi's? I was running on 5 cyl. It feels like it takes away 150kw. I just watched you walk away. So shit. Here we are on DVD and I loose to you! haha :whistling: . Great weekend either way!

Dunno?

Just remember you reeling me in, could hear you coming. If there was another 100m, you would've gone past me easily IMO.

I reckon i had ~360 given the MPH, which you had 6-7 MPH more than me depending.

Dunno?

Just remember you reeling me in, could hear you coming. If there was another 100m, you would've gone past me easily IMO.

I reckon i had ~360 given the MPH, which you had 6-7 MPH more than me depending.

I think I trapped 130 or 131.

We even went into town to get fresh plugs. That shit town had nothing. Thing to remember, always carry small crap like that!

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Wondering if i can get some assistance with Injector choice.

have been suggested to get the ID1000cc injectors for smooth idle and niceness. Have also found guys selling them for like around $650, $700 shipped.

- have read a lot that these dont fit straight into a stock fuel rail which is what im running currently.

had a look at bosch 800cc which say they are drop in fit for stock rail. again about $700

Sard 800cc, people say the 700cc are drop in however when you go to the 800cc they dont drop straight in.

Nismo 700cc - 800cc. these are suppose to be direct fit.

Is anyone able to give me some good information/advice. Everyone speaks highly of the ID1000 injectors but are they gonna be a pain in the ass to fit?? im only going for the -7s setup on stock Rb with supportin mods for whatever over 300 i can get, currently around 290 on 18psi.

Do i need the 800cc's or should i go for a 700 or there around abouts?

I want something that is gonna be best for price (obviously the more i save the better) that is direct fitment or near abouts (little modification) to fit my stock fuel rail.

Have also seen quite a few second hand sets getting around been used for like less thatn 5000km have flow charts etc. Is this a worthy option for the $400 odd price range, have seen HKS, Greddy 700cc, bosch 800cc, etc available.

Cheers

Are your injectors maxed out currently?

If so, just up the rail pressure a bit. Will cost for 1/10th the price it'll cost to upgrade injectors and then the full re-tune etc.

Realistically you'll only get another 10-20rwkw so no point spending another $1500 on injectors/retuning for that return. You probably wont even notice the extra power realistically.

Are your injectors maxed out currently?

If so, just up the rail pressure a bit. Will cost for 1/10th the price it'll cost to upgrade injectors and then the full re-tune etc.

Realistically you'll only get another 10-20rwkw so no point spending another $1500 on injectors/retuning for that return. You probably wont even notice the extra power realistically.

Not sure as to limits of injectors. They are still stock ones.

have read through all the guides/setups/power rating posts. that injectors will need to be upgraded, whether its as far as 800cc/ID1000cc. at least the bump up to 640cc was required to get more from the tune.

upping the rail pressure on stock injectors? will that work for dash 7's over 300kw. I am already going in for a tune and having more things added, the injectors was one of the things i had budgeted for.

thanks for your help.

I made 340rwkw on stock injectors with a rail pressure increase, on stock injectors.

It's obviously not "the best" solution, however for your application, given you are almost at the turbos limit anway... Spend $100 or spend $1500 for the same end result - your call really. IMO it's a waste of your money going aftermarket injectors.

If you dont even know if your stock injectors are on their limits - then why are you even looking at aftermarket ones? Talk to your tuner and understand where your car is at first.

Okay drag day 2011, lined up Sloane 7 times and beat him every time....I had, stock 26, -9's running 290-300AWKW full tank 1600 odd kgs, he had 32GTR 347AWKW, cams, turbos similar to 2530's but a bit laggier, nismo copper twin, and weighed 116KG less than my 34.

What was your best time that day?

Edited by willL

Sard 700's have the correct plug and will fit straight into the stock rail.

Sard 800's have the wrong plug (but they are included) and might fit straight into the stock rail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...