Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Done the sneaky mod haha

Does help get rid of the shuffling at low throttle %s

A member on here craved is his name did mine

It does smooth out the airflow of the 2 turbo outlets though.... that's why nismo have a piping kit that does the same thing.

Okay drag day 2011, lined up Sloane 7 times and beat him every time....I had, stock 26, -9's running 290-300AWKW full tank 1600 odd kgs, he had 32GTR 347AWKW, cams, turbos similar to 2530's but a bit laggier, nismo copper twin, and weighed 116KG less than my 34.

I beat him because the -9's came on earlier when launching off the line and came onto boost faster after changing gears. Even with his lighter, more powerfull car he got beat. The video shows that area under the curve. Peak power is easy....

I smiled when he said he couldn't believe I kept beating him and said the numbers just don't add up. I explained and he understood.

Now he's going -5's for that higher HP goal, I'm building his new engine, still a stock stroke RB26DETT, so I guess he might be better off now with the -5's but it still won't be as responsive....each to their own I guess.

I'll aim for 330WKW at 20-22PSI once new twin plate and tune done and see where we stand.:thumbsup:

I smiled when he said he couldn't believe I kept beating him and said the numbers just don't add up. I explained and he understood.

Average power win's in most cases and you have proved it even on the drag strip. Some people just dont understand this. The 'peaky' curve feels faster, but isn't in the real world. RP cars are a classic example of this.

Average power win's in most cases and you have proved it even on the drag strip. Some people just dont understand this. The 'peaky' curve feels faster, but isn't in the real world. RP cars are a classic example of this.

You know @ Drags it's a different story! :domokun:

The ONLY reason i was faster than you @ Drag Battle was because i was doing 1.5-1.6 60fts. Otherwise even with your laggy setup, you would have pegged me with ~40rwkw more.

Cannot beat outright power in that situation.

You know @ Drags it's a different story! :domokun:

The ONLY reason i was faster than you @ Drag Battle was because i was doing 1.5-1.6 60fts. Otherwise even with your laggy setup, you would have pegged me with ~40rwkw more.

Cannot beat outright power in that situation.

In the semi's? I was running on 5 cyl. It feels like it takes away 150kw. I just watched you walk away. So shit. Here we are on DVD and I loose to you! haha :whistling: . Great weekend either way!

In the semi's? I was running on 5 cyl. It feels like it takes away 150kw. I just watched you walk away. So shit. Here we are on DVD and I loose to you! haha :whistling: . Great weekend either way!

Dunno?

Just remember you reeling me in, could hear you coming. If there was another 100m, you would've gone past me easily IMO.

I reckon i had ~360 given the MPH, which you had 6-7 MPH more than me depending.

Dunno?

Just remember you reeling me in, could hear you coming. If there was another 100m, you would've gone past me easily IMO.

I reckon i had ~360 given the MPH, which you had 6-7 MPH more than me depending.

I think I trapped 130 or 131.

We even went into town to get fresh plugs. That shit town had nothing. Thing to remember, always carry small crap like that!

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Wondering if i can get some assistance with Injector choice.

have been suggested to get the ID1000cc injectors for smooth idle and niceness. Have also found guys selling them for like around $650, $700 shipped.

- have read a lot that these dont fit straight into a stock fuel rail which is what im running currently.

had a look at bosch 800cc which say they are drop in fit for stock rail. again about $700

Sard 800cc, people say the 700cc are drop in however when you go to the 800cc they dont drop straight in.

Nismo 700cc - 800cc. these are suppose to be direct fit.

Is anyone able to give me some good information/advice. Everyone speaks highly of the ID1000 injectors but are they gonna be a pain in the ass to fit?? im only going for the -7s setup on stock Rb with supportin mods for whatever over 300 i can get, currently around 290 on 18psi.

Do i need the 800cc's or should i go for a 700 or there around abouts?

I want something that is gonna be best for price (obviously the more i save the better) that is direct fitment or near abouts (little modification) to fit my stock fuel rail.

Have also seen quite a few second hand sets getting around been used for like less thatn 5000km have flow charts etc. Is this a worthy option for the $400 odd price range, have seen HKS, Greddy 700cc, bosch 800cc, etc available.

Cheers

Are your injectors maxed out currently?

If so, just up the rail pressure a bit. Will cost for 1/10th the price it'll cost to upgrade injectors and then the full re-tune etc.

Realistically you'll only get another 10-20rwkw so no point spending another $1500 on injectors/retuning for that return. You probably wont even notice the extra power realistically.

Are your injectors maxed out currently?

If so, just up the rail pressure a bit. Will cost for 1/10th the price it'll cost to upgrade injectors and then the full re-tune etc.

Realistically you'll only get another 10-20rwkw so no point spending another $1500 on injectors/retuning for that return. You probably wont even notice the extra power realistically.

Not sure as to limits of injectors. They are still stock ones.

have read through all the guides/setups/power rating posts. that injectors will need to be upgraded, whether its as far as 800cc/ID1000cc. at least the bump up to 640cc was required to get more from the tune.

upping the rail pressure on stock injectors? will that work for dash 7's over 300kw. I am already going in for a tune and having more things added, the injectors was one of the things i had budgeted for.

thanks for your help.

I made 340rwkw on stock injectors with a rail pressure increase, on stock injectors.

It's obviously not "the best" solution, however for your application, given you are almost at the turbos limit anway... Spend $100 or spend $1500 for the same end result - your call really. IMO it's a waste of your money going aftermarket injectors.

If you dont even know if your stock injectors are on their limits - then why are you even looking at aftermarket ones? Talk to your tuner and understand where your car is at first.

Okay drag day 2011, lined up Sloane 7 times and beat him every time....I had, stock 26, -9's running 290-300AWKW full tank 1600 odd kgs, he had 32GTR 347AWKW, cams, turbos similar to 2530's but a bit laggier, nismo copper twin, and weighed 116KG less than my 34.

What was your best time that day?

Edited by willL

Sard 700's have the correct plug and will fit straight into the stock rail.

Sard 800's have the wrong plug (but they are included) and might fit straight into the stock rail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...