Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

anyone no minimum and maximum requirements yet????
Min

CPU: AMD64 3200+/ Intel P4 3.00Ghz

Memory: 8GB free HD space, 512Mb (XP)/ 1Gb (Vista)

Graphics: 3.0 shader, 256Mb GeForce 6600GT/ ATI 1600XT or better

so it's slightly higher specs than COD4

Max :banana:

CPU: Intel QX9775 3.2Ghz

Memory: 4GB DDR3

Graphics: Nvidia GTX280 quad SLI/ ATI HD4870X2 in quad crossfire

:laugh:

  • 2 weeks later...

Treyarch made the horrible COD 3 for "last gen" consoles. Let's see if they learnt for the mistakes of the past. I guess using the COD 4 engine is a good start. 4 player co-op is a big advantage...but they need to sort out lag issues or have local servers setup...you know that the PC will but consoles is unknown

Treyarch made the horrible COD 3 for "last gen" consoles. Let's see if they learnt for the mistakes of the past. I guess using the COD 4 engine is a good start. 4 player co-op is a big advantage...but they need to sort out lag issues or have local servers setup...you know that the PC will but consoles is unknown

Yes they did! and remember it was on 360 and PS3 so this gen as well.

And it was truly a shitty shitty game, so I am a little worried about the quality of world at war, sure if it's the same as number 4 but WW2 thats good. But it would be nice to see them try some new ideas!

the prices of games these days re rediculous, its just a cd, anyways, i will be picking it up after work from jb, hopefuly they get it in today. i bought brothers in arms which was absolutely dog, so gonna switch it!

i liked brothers in arms hells highway, i just bet the game the other day. the controls were easy to use to move your men and the slow mo headshots and explosions were awsome i love gore and violence lol. just got world at war and done a few missions its good so far, makes it easier cause everything moves and plays like cod4 so you dont have to get used to different buttons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...