Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it also acts as heat resistance, if you take it off the paint on your bonnet can heat up and crack etc

When my car got checked by my a friend at xspeed, i ask him the same thing, as i know the car engine will run cooler without it, but he mention what karl said in regards to the paint. So left mine on..

Edited by br3ndan
  • 3 weeks later...
Many cars don't come with liners either (I realise that the cars I refer to are generally n/a runabouts not turbo performance cars)

Funny you mention that,

I just got back from a track day in the 33. And after 5 hot laps and a cool down lap, i usually pop the bonnet right up and let it idle down for 3-4mins. Both with the Skyline and my Integra R.

I noticed straight away that the immediate heat under the bonnet in the ITR was suprisingly ALOT hotter than the Skyline, IC pipes and Intake manifold were "cool", and so were the brakes! ( brakes being able to actually touch the caliper for a few seconds, but in the ITR, i couldnt even touch the wheels they were red hot, to the point the wheels changed colour to a burnt yellow/brown, lol.)

Possibly because the Headers are at the front giving of the most heat, but i found it a little odd.

Aftermarket CF/Fibreglass bonnets dont have shields do they? Havnt heard about too many heat related problems. Anyone has?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...