Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't have a circlip in mine (race car) haven't for years. it can't fall out unless something else is wrong because it is held in at the hub end, and the hub is held to the subframe by the control arms

I don't have a circlip in mine (race car) haven't for years. it can't fall out unless something else is wrong because it is held in at the hub end, and the hub is held to the subframe by the control arms

thanks for the quick reply

i thought the circlip was there to keep the diffs seal against the shaft. if there is any movement at all wont oil leak out?

drag-on-silvia, I hope you don't mind me hijacking the thread for a minute. While we are on the topic of front shaft does anyone know how to remove this boot (pictures below) from the front shaft? I am trying to remove that metal segment of the shaft that houses the bearings.

Cheers!

2731220760064171239S425x425Q85.jpg2061800140064171239S425x425Q85.jpg

HI manage13 the metal disk in the end of the shaft will pop out quite easily the best way is to remove the shaft from the car and just give it a light tap from the hub end with a soft hammer and the disk will pop straight out then you will find there is a circlip that holds the bearings on the shaft so is a fairly staight forward proccess of removing the circlip the bearings will then slide straight off the splined shaft. Assembly is just as simple slide the new bearings on install the new circlip and boot repac with new grease (supplied with the new boot) replace the disk that seals the shaft and reinstall. Might be a good idea to have the shaft checked though as if the cup itself has excessive wear new bearings alone will make no differance if the shaft is clicking while on lock. and you may need to soarce some good condition secon hand shafts.

Just a quick business plug here just for the benefit of forum members that may not know.

If people are looking to replace CV boots look no further than Pedders. An original cv boot from Nissan is about $90 each however I dropped of my old boot to Pedders Dandenong and they matched it for $35. The kit contained boot, two metal clamps and greece.

Big thumbs up to Pedders Dandenong for great customer service too! Dropped my old boot off at 4pm and was called 11am the next day informing me the boot was ready for pick up.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi manage13 you don't know that Pedders part number you were supplied do you? I'd like to buy the boots you are talking about.

All, I have attached the front drive shaft section from the manual for reference; though I am sure that this is no match for personal experience.

R32_GTR_Front_Driveshaft.pdf

Edited by Birth
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...