Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sly33.. can i ask what mods have you done to your car??

the reason being is i too am chasing around 230rwkw and am just interested to see what the difference is between 230rwkw and my failry stock car.

wouldnt mind going for a spin in your car either if thats cool..

give me a holla when you up in Sydney.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432464
Share on other sites

Recently put a HKS GT2540 in my GTS-t and am very happy with it - it is only really used as a street car. And yes while the peak power gains are not massive when considering what standard turbos can reach, you can play with higher boost figures consistently without worrying about the turbo giving up on you...

Power figures aren't mind-blowing but as a few people have already noted, it's not often you'll need 250+ rwkw's on the street...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432528
Share on other sites

I know of someone who is doing a Garrett setup (600hp turbo) which basically will be the same as my 2835 pro setup bar maybe a plenum and Microtech V PFC. We and sure everyone of you will be keen to see the results. I will keep you posted. By the way 2835 Pro is a T3 flange for whoever asked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432556
Share on other sites

EVOIV,

I've been more than happy with the e-Manage. As long as you purchase all the harnessess as well, gives you good tuning scope. Though seeing as it's essentially still a piggy-back system, not quite as comprehensive as the A'pexi Power FC.

As I have the e-01 boost controller / monitor it can be tuned via the hand controller, though again, with the support CD and cable it can be hooked up to a laptop as well for greater ease of use.

All in all I think very good for the money... can't remember exactly how much I paid (bought all my parts in the one go), maybe round $700 with the harnesses (excluding e-01 unit)? Not too sure... can find out if you're keen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432573
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Drivebai

Sly33.. can i ask what mods have you done to your car??

the reason being is i too am chasing around 230rwkw and am just interested to see what the difference is between 230rwkw and my failry stock car.

wouldnt mind going for a spin in your car either if thats cool..

give me a holla when you up in Sydney.

well its not making the 230 yet as the turbo is still waiting to go on.

I have the usual full exhaust and intake mods, decent FMIC, extreme clutch, bosch 044 fuel pump, power FC computer. This got me 200rwkw. All i need for 230rwkw is a rising rate reg. and a retune of the FC. Although i may splash out on 550cc injectors just for peace of mind that no leaning out will occur.

Ezekrael you have a fair bit more potential in your setup!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432665
Share on other sites

Freebaggin,

I saw the Dyno chart on the computer @ the workshop, but their printer was stuffed on the day... so they're printing it and sending it to me in the next few days.

212 was the best repeatable result they could manage cuz the factory clutch was slipping more and more with each run... they got up to about 230-235 rwkw @ around 1.15 bar I believe. We'll know for sure when I work out what clutch to go for, any suggestions for someone aiming for 240 rwkw guys? Don't want anything too savage... Been told to go for Exedy so far...

Sly33,

Sounds like we've got very similar setups... I've got A'pexi GTspec FMIC, pod filter, bosch044 pump, Nismo 555cc injectors... hopefully with decent clutch, should be good for 1.2 bar and 240 rwkw? Who knows... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-432870
Share on other sites

Just wondering if you guys 044 fuel pump is mounted internally or externally? I used to mount mine externally, and put rubber/foam between the fuel pump and the car body and it was still DAMN loud from inside the car! Gets kinda annoying after a while. A constant buzzing. Can you place this fuel pump inside the fuel tank? If so, can you still hear it?

Are the standard skyline turbos good for 230rwkw?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-433577
Share on other sites

Having driven a 4wd car with around 500hp and also driven a rwd car with pretty good power I can safely say that for a street driven rwd car you don't want a peaky turbo ie one that spools up at 3500rpm and hits hard.

All you'll get is wheel spin in first and second if your not careful.

The 4wd is a totally different story. Traction is much less of an issue, so you can launch it at 4500rpm with a slight chirp and your off.

So for a street driven rwd car you want a nice wide usable power band that starts low and has good torque spread.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/3/#findComment-433630
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...