Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

i was just wondering what i could possibly do to my nissan skyline r33 gts4.

To make it get more kws/hp remembering i msut be under 200kws under new p Plate rules.

Just interested in what mods i could that would keep it under but make it go faster and get more kws it has 134kw standard at the momemt so i have abit to add any feed back would be awesome

Thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238477-p-plater-gts4-r33-what-can-i-do/
Share on other sites

Hey guys

i was just wondering what i could possibly do to my nissan skyline r33 gts4.

To make it get more kws/hp remembering i msut be under 200kws under new p Plate rules.

Just interested in what mods i could that would keep it under but make it go faster and get more kws it has 134kw standard at the momemt so i have abit to add any feed back would be awesome

Thanks guys :)

Which state are you in? Most P Plate laws = no performance modifications.

Suspension and Brakes will help you make more use of the power you already have and really improve handling. eg. Sway Bars, lowered springs, coil overs, depends on what you want to do with your car, whether you want to be taking it out on the track or have a comfy daily driver as well.

If you're serious about getting power you would probably be best to drive the R33 around as is, then upgrade to a turbo model later when you're on your open licence, or focus on other things to prepare it for more power and then modify it when you're on an open licence.

There's a few stickies in this forum for getting more power out of an N/A, note that getting considerable gains from an N/A skyline can be quite expensive.

Alternatively you could look at doing a turbo conversion later as well, something a number of people with N/A Skylines have done with some good results, something I'm in the process of doing.

Have a read of the threads in this forum though as I think you'll find that most of what you're after has been covered.

Edited by N-DAWG

gday mate,

i was like you, wondering what to do with my gts4... decided to make it a baby gtr... might give you some ideas in my sig...

btw...134kws? have you had it dynoed? mine was 104rwkw cuz we had to take the front drive shaft out cuz was only a 2wd dyno... you sure 134? and is that at the engine, rear wheels or all wheels? if thats stock at the rears then thats not far off standard turbo power... which couldnt be right?

Adam

Are you sure its not 134hp? Or 134kw at the fly?

There was a thread about this. Run a search.

As Nathan and Leon said.

If you want more power look into a 3L bottom end conversion.

Or 2.5L with port and poish, cams, cam gears, fuel pump and retune would net you a nice significant gain.

what about an rb25det conversion out of a stagea? pretty sure that in stock form those are under 200kw also is it 200kw at the wheels or at the flywheel?, or more realistically you can wait until your off your Ps and go crazy !! RB26 N1 from japan and shiz !

what about an rb25det conversion out of a stagea? pretty sure that in stock form those are under 200kw also is it 200kw at the wheels or at the flywheel?, or more realistically you can wait until your off your Ps and go crazy !! RB26 N1 from japan and shiz !

RB25DET is a turbocharged engine. turbo = no no for p platers that come under restrictions.

ahh gay, move to WA, no restrictions...yet, you can have 1500HP on P plates if you want :D

Well the general point of restrictions is to ensure a car doesn't hit another car, building, livestock, posts, building, people, gutters etc, all of which WA don't have. :merli:

If I was still living in NSW I'd be on my green P's right now on a restricted licence. But because I got my P's before Queensland introduced the new system, having my licence transferred exempts me from the new rules and I'm still on the old system :D I found this out when I transferred my licence AFTER buying an N/A Skyline >_> At least I can modify it without any problems now :merli:

ok s even if you do have that power its going to take a lot of money to make 60kw =\

if you want me to make it short and simple take your engine out and go find some 87mm pistons

except i need them at the moment because my cars been off the road for almost 3 months =\ hmmmm

trust me you will get over trying to make your NA have power, just go sex spec till you can have a turbo because you can pull sex spec off and stick it on the turbo car if its a gtst :O

If you are really desparate to get more power out of it, and you're willing to run the risk of modifying on a restricted licence, then internal engine mods would be the way to go, such as bigger cams and some adjustable cam gears.

I guess you might be able to get away with upgrading the exhaust piping, and keeping a factory rear muffler so that it's still quiet and standard, but at least you'll help the flow.

I believe Eug is using a factory turbo model exhaust. Helps things flow without the attention and added noise. I'm sure that authorities won't be able to tell the difference with that, it will look like a stock standard from factory exhaust.

Throw in a K&N Panel Filter in the air box, don't put the K&N Sticker on it. It won't look any different when the bonnet is lifted.

But for what it's worth, I stick by my suggestion before.

It shouldn't be too diffidcult to sell an N/A Skyline later on due to p plate laws.

Edited by N-DAWG

Ahh the good old r33 gts-4; owned one in 2000.

cold air intake, exhaust and a unichip ecu tune made a cool 78awkw.

Put an apexi panel filter in your stock airbox, some good plugs, oil and punch the cat. Makes a great daily driver!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...