Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I did a search and this has not been covered as such.

Can anyone suggest that if they used a Broker that they were happy with?

Should I steer clear of anyone in particular?

Are there any horror stories?

We all have to be careful about what is said, but I value everyone's opinion and I have a couple of names, one in Perth and one in Melbourne, but is there anyone else?

Can I find out who you guys used and what you felt about the process?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239057-v35-import-brokers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

perth one is good :blink:

there is one in adelaide also that is quite helpful. he's on here and will probably see this.

Cheers...

Perhaps he will see this thread and make contact with me... which would be easier for me!!

I used J-Spec for my first V35 and was very happy with the service.

Criag was extremely helpful and very patient.

I'm the kind of customer that wanted the best value car for my money and i wanted it yesterday :-)

The car came in exactly as described, without a hitch in the whole process.

However, my second V35 I bought locally in Australia. I think you'll find there are a lot of nice bargains about the place if you do a bit of a search. There's a few very nice examples up for sale in teh For Sale section, and the bonus is that you get to test drive the car and have it inspected as much as you like.

At the end of the day, if your going for a very unique colour/combo that you can't find here then import, if your going to save thousands then import, if what you want is local and it's only a grand or so more expensive than importing, then i would stay local :-)

Again i was very very happy with J-Spec, and if needed would use them again, but personally nothing beats paying for a car and driving it home the same day.

Cheers

Bobby

Thanks Bobby... I understand all that you said but there is not much locally where I am. In Melbourne there probably is, but I haven't seen much that excites me on the net.

Yeah I agree, i'm from Melb as well and there's nothing that's exciting at all.

All the good ones are either in Sydney or Queensland..

www.autoshop.net.au

www.carmenimports.com.au

www.importautocentre.com.au

www.motorman.com.au

thats a start. I do work for those yards and they have cars in stock. the first three are compliance shops as well . all can source cars from japan.

www.autoshop.net.au

www.carmenimports.com.au

www.importautocentre.com.au

www.motorman.com.au

thats a start. I do work for those yards and they have cars in stock. the first three are compliance shops as well . all can source cars from japan.

Used motorman for my current 35.

Got my last two cars through importautocentre, a Silvia and then a Soarer. Not always the best stock but they do get a few gems in from time to time. Talk directly to Mark (owner) if you can.

Just remember in the end they are all used car salesmen.... (no offense intended to any brokers or salesmen that surf here :O)

I used J-spec for my 2 V35's - Ben is great to deal with and you get lots of photos. Ben is currently working from Japan which always helps.

Also Helps to keep an eye on the Auctions:

https://bzl.cis6200.jp/e/p5_search_result_p...;cc=&hyoka=

Log in "T77043" may need to log in then re-click on the above link.

also check this:

http://www.cyber-mag.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=944 for all the information you need to calculate costs etc.

BTW I bought my car at 103Yen but by the time it got on the ship the Yen was down to 94 and they actually calculate the import duty on what the Yen is when your car gets on the boat!!!

So things that suck with exchange:

Yen V's Ozzie dollar when you buy

Yen V's Ozzie dollar when your car gets on the boat (Import duties)

USD V's Ozzie dollar when you pay for the shipping as this is calculated in USD!

I would think that it may be cheaper now to buy a car already in Oz than it is to import with the current exchange rates!

Example using this calculator: http://www.cyber-mag.com/importcost.htm (banks take an extra 1.5Yen off of the listed exchange rates)

1,430,000 Yen car at 100 Yen = $14,300 buy and $24,100 Landed and registered average personal import cost 1 to 3 months ago!

1,430,000 Yen car at 66.5 Yen = $21,500 buy and $33,100 Landed and registered average personal import cost at current exchange rates!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...