Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And he explained to me that some people need to make do with what they can afford, people in Porsches, Ferraris and Lambos etc probly look at our cars and think the exact same things we think when we see a riced up econobox(be it whatever car).

yeah true...

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i said they need rebuild's, i didn't mean stock h22a's. i mean't the spoon and mugen motors, or any other engine, not just honda, that can rev to double digits. the poor internals must be going through hell.

however,

i'll probly try a prelude, integra, or civic before i go to a GTR.

I consider myself very fortunate to be able to have both (VTiR + GT-R).

Two totally different cars; and for two different reasons...

But I can get out of one and into the other, without having to mentally readjust or feel awkward = Balance.

Tez :P

You need to go in an NSX-R then.

Quicker around a track, and from a standing 1/4 than an R34 GTR.

yea i know nsx-r is very quick especially around a track, but sorry i don't have any spot for honda, though back in my home country my girfriend's dad owns a Honda dealership.. if i'd pick japanese sport car, i'd pick nissan no doubt.

nothing wrong with hondas, i had a civic for 2 years..and it never broke down once, even with me thrashing the shit out of it.

sure it was a bit gutless as it was non-vtec, but i could corner in that harder with shitty tyres, stock susp and bulk body roll than in my skyline with coilovers.

many R model hondas would keep up, if not chop, many stock skylines on here. having said that, i chopped a brand new civic type R very hard recently lol

saying vtecs are gutless and torqueless makes you as much as a fool as the honda boy who bragging bout vtec in the vtir

The first time I hit VTEC in dad's prelude I was amazed at how much quicker it went once the high lift cams came in.

The second time I hit VTEC I was amazed at how f**king slow the car was up until that point!

But do you know what the best thing about Hondas is? It means fewer wankers driving skylines :(

*zips up flame suit* ah I'm just kidding.. I reckon an S2000 would be an awesome car. I was also a fan of the Integra Type R for a while, except for the FWD factor..

yer vtec = shit... right :)

i forget which thread it was where a "fully" tuned rb30 was makin like 140ishkw with stupidly high comp n all...

meanwhile a similiarly spec'd honda b18c makes over 150fwkw...

oh n then theres that turbo crx frmo quite a few years ago.. i think his plates were UCACRX makin over 400fwkw on his "shit" b18c ....

then theres this shitbox

slow as yer.. the yanks r runnin low 8's high 7's...

yer i can see how vtecs and hondas r shit... :bunny:

every engine/car is as good as the person who builds it...

I think the wind has gone from the sails. Lets let this thread die. As the SAU community has failed to bring a good argument to light. bar " Hondas Suck".

And your right Kinks, the more people that drive hondas, the less chance of some Skyline N00b attempting to drift his mad fast RB20det on a street and killing a real enthusiast.

I have nothing against VTEC or Honda.. but it pisses me off when ppl say that their stock honda integra type R can beat the crap out of my gtr that has GT2860-5's in it.. Do some research before you make ridiculous claims =/ Sure VTEC can work, and it has its uses, but that doesn't make it the best car in the world that can beat everyone..

Actually I think i just hate ppl who talk crap.. has nothing to do with VTEC :)

I like hondas :ermm:

I like skylines :(

But how do you compare one with a turbo and without?

People say that a nissan without a turbo is nothing.

If we remvoe the turbo out of a GTS-T, or put it against a GTS/GT(34), how will a vtec go?

Not fair.

Love nissan and honda.

I like any engine that delivers the goods. I don't particularly care if its a Nissan a Holden or a Daihatsu.

If a four cylinder with clever valve and cam timing can get me excited and make me want to drive and drive fast then congratulations to the engine designers. Job well done.

I recently drove a CRX with a B16C I can honestly say it was a blast.

Was it the same as driving a four hundred horsepower V8 hotrod? No. Was it the same as driving a turbocharged skyline? Definitely not. Nor was it comparable to my current NA. Not because the VTEC powered car was good or bad but because comparing these engines is like comparing chalk and cheese.

The only bad thing about Honda's VTEC engines are the fanboys.

For those who still think the VTEC engines are crap I would also like to do a quick engine efficiency calculation (aka brake mean efficiency pressure):

For those that don't know BMEP is a measure of design optimisation by calculating the average cylinder pressure during combustion. The higher the number the more efficient the design.

Where BMEP= kW x 1200 / litres x RPM

Stock R34 GT N/A

147 kW x 1200 / 2.5 x 6000 = 176400 / 15000

Therefore BMEP = 11.76 bar

Stock 2001 Integra Type R 2.0 litre VTEC

147 kW x 1200 / 2.0 x 7400 = 176400 / 14800

Therefore BMEP = 11.91 bar

So the R34 has an extra 500cc but it is still not quite as efficient as the Integra's engine. Interesting hey?

is it hondas signature for all fwd cars?

Also, does vtec kick in at 5000rpm+ I thought vtec/na was suppose to eliminate any lag.

With this a turbo would be added and then include vtec would make a lot less turbo lag.

No idea.

Edited by Owgasm

Not sure what your saying there, but they make RWD too such as the S2000 and NSX.

What im saying is that a 1.8 or 2L RWD Integra or Prelude would probably be looked upon more desirably in a RWD platform

Edited by MintR33

on another note.. vtec wasnt introduce to reduce "lag"

its for fuel economy... the theory was that that under 6k u can save lots of fuel by running a small life and duration cam

while when u needed it to move then it would switch to a much more agressive and less fuel economic setting and produce the power u need to get moving quickly without a turbo

Actually, it wasn't designed to be firm and noisy. Surely the design objectives were to make it handle well and perform well on just 1.8 litres. Stiffening the suspension so much and removing the sound deadening turned it into a tiresome road car even though it was good when you occasionally went to the track.

Wot? We are talking about the Type-R, right? The "race car for the road" models? Of course it was designed to be firm and noisy. Its not like they accidentally seam welded the chassis and forgot to include sound deadening in the bill of materials.

The VTiR was designed to "handle well and perform well on just 1.8L" while still being a comfortable streeter.

Surely, if you owned one and you're an enthusiast you'd know what the design brief for any proper Type-R model is (i.e. not the shitty DC5 we got foisted upon us, or the CTRs the Poms made) to be a road car that is trackable off the showroom floor.

Quote from a guy who went from a peaky S2000 to a torquey 350Z in regards to how the cars drive.

Going from Honda to Nissan i would dare say it will be hard to get back into another honda unless its an NSX or worked S2000.

I am really enjoying the extra usable torque of the 350z and this has sort of lead me on the path to wanting something quicker....

I actually look back now and can see why guys who drive nissans bag out Hondas. hehe

Nuff said.

Edited by scathing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...