Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a warning to the people currently looking to import a car to be careful and always check the exchange rate daily as with the recent giant drop it means the FOB prices quoted by people even just today are $1,500 to $2,000 off the true exchange rate.

It is buyer beware as we all know but you would not want to commit to a car and then head off to the bank and go "what the F#@K happened to the exchange rate".

post-5805-1223482255_thumb.png

Hahahahah mate this totally f**ked me!!

Bought a R34 GTR around 2 weeks ago. Just from the day I purchased it till the day I payed for it I lost around 6K!

There is nothign that can be done except wear the cost. Hurts a bit though.

Yes I have to go back and update my website again. Getting hard to keep up with it, it's dropping so fast. Not good at all.

The guys I really feel sorry for are the ones with cars coming across now, because between shipping costs (which get paid in US $) and customs duty/GST (calculated on the FOB in yen of the vehicle when it lands, not when it was bought), there are gonna be some nasty shocks.

Things are pretty bleak right now...I'm already having to face the prospect of going back to teaching, and I can't think of anything worse at the moment.

yep AUD is fked right now. currently buying 65 yen. Importing a car right now would have to be close to shooting yourself in the foot. anyone looking for a car would be smart to either buy one here and take advantage of someone else who imported when the rate was good or just wait. but sadly it could be weeks or it could be a few years before the rate gets anything like normal again. it's a big blow for me. not least of which I have 2 trips to japan scheduled in the next 3 months.

it will be unbelievably quiet for exporters in japan for the the foreseable future.

I cannot remember the last time the dollar was this bad. must have been well over 5 years ago.

Not unless all other currencies are dropping against it too. For the record, we rank 14th in terms of number of vehicles exported from Japan, in other words, we're small fry these days.

pheww...

thank god i bought my 33 in July.

I still dont have it though! :banana:

Yeah I too feel very lucky that I bought my stagea m35 in early august.

I still dont have mine but hopefully the wait will be over soon :happy:

its not all doom and gloom . its mostly doom and gloom but theres a splash of non doom

i saw an evo 8 go for 850fob and r34 gtt man turbo go for 550fob on tuesday

at the current rate thats approx 13000$ and $8500 which is cheap

the downside is very few cars actually sell as japanese sellers are in the same boat going WTF is going on and would rather sit on the car than dump it for a crazy price . after all to them its 850,000 not 13000$

Yes I have to go back and update my website again. Getting hard to keep up with it, it's dropping so fast. Not good at all.

The guys I really feel sorry for are the ones with cars coming across now, because between shipping costs (which get paid in US $) and customs duty/GST (calculated on the FOB in yen of the vehicle when it lands, not when it was bought), there are gonna be some nasty shocks.

Things are pretty bleak right now...I'm already having to face the prospect of going back to teaching, and I can't think of anything worse at the moment.

wrong customs and GST is assessed at the date it leaves Japan NOT the date it arrives.... still hurts tho....

shipping is correct.

I am glad I bought mine on 28 June, paid on 30 June when it peaked, great timing... same car would cost me AUD$6 more now.....

i got burned on import duty and GST tho as my car missed the July boat and therefore was assessed on 28 August, the day it left Japan, could have been worse I guess

wrong customs and GST is assessed at the date it leaves Japan NOT the date it arrives.... still hurts tho....

shipping is correct.

I am glad I bought mine on 28 June, paid on 30 June when it peaked, great timing... same car would cost me AUD$6 more now.....

i got burned on import duty and GST tho as my car missed the July boat and therefore was assessed on 28 August, the day it left Japan, could have been worse I guess

That's right. The duty and gst are calculated on whatever it's dated on the bill of lading.

The guys I really feel sorry for are the ones with cars coming across now, because between shipping costs (which get paid in US $) and customs duty/GST (calculated on the FOB in yen of the vehicle when it lands, not when it was bought), there are gonna be some nasty shocks.

yep massive bummer, mine has arrived in Sydney now and I'm gunna have this problem. what a rort.

:|

edit - good to know its calculated on when it leaves japan. I was sure it was when it landed?

cheers

Edited by wrxkilla

good news the exchange rate is getting slightly better.

the australian dollar has gone from buying around 64.4 japanese yen on friday to about 72.5 japanese yen today, lets just hope this keeps going

its bullshit, im trying to bring parts over from japan for my new engine and al the cost of parts have jumped hugely.

when you are Chef's boat its more frustrating. myself I have a 4 figure sum of parts sitting in tokyo waiting on me to ship them out. the cost to the end user literally doubled in the space of two weeks.

I'm waiting for the flow of work ( I do compliance Immobilsiers for 4 shops here in brissy) to stop - I'm good up to Dec at this stage before it all slows due to the exchange rate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...