Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I currently have a GT2835 Pro S putting out 273 RWKW with the usual mods (PFC, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, front mount etc etc) running 18 PSI.

I am getting pon cams soon 256 inlet 260 exhaust to the the power up a little more (to about 290 rwkw)

Anyway, my question being, is it worth my getting a 3037 0.68 housing to get around the 320 rwkw mark (hopefully), or should I just wind up the boost a little more after I get the cams on the 2835 to push out 20psi and get around 295rwkw?

that is, is it worth all the hassle/money for an extra 25 rwkw and more lag?

Would my 1/4 mile time drop by getting the 3037?

Cheers guys

I dont think you'll make a real 295rwkw out of a 2835. Happy to see that proved wrong however :)

The 3037 wont make 'that' much more, the rear housing is the governing factor there more over the comp wheel which will flow more no problem if you put the bigger housing on.

How it affects your 1/4... proably not a lot. You'll still have a pretty reasonable power band to choose from if you upgrade, it just wont be as big as the 2835, but considering drags is more top and low, you should be fine there.

Your 1/4 will more be dictated by the tyres/grip you have for the most part with that kinda power. If your doing it on street rubber... you wont notice much as it'll all be wheelspin with either power.

Cost vs gain... end of the day you'll benefit more from decent rubber on the car as opposed to upgrading the turbo with 1/4 time in mind :D

If you want to pick up a hardly used 3037 pro s turbo kit click on the link to my for sale thread in my signature for more details :P

Make me an offer if your keen.

Cheers

Dollars and major hastle... I wouldn't bother...

What ash said about rubber is a great point... But its a recurring investment... A turbo is a one off spend...

what do you intend on using the car for? I have the same turbo as you and a well sorted suspension setup and i can't really see the need for any more power on street tyres... hence me looking for a gtr atm... :spank:

how's your suspension setup? If its not full house thats where i'd be throwing any lazy cash... But thats me :wave:

Dollars and major hastle... I wouldn't bother...

What ash said about rubber is a great point... But its a recurring investment... A turbo is a one off spend...

what do you intend on using the car for? I have the same turbo as you and a well sorted suspension setup and i can't really see the need for any more power on street tyres... hence me looking for a gtr atm... :)

how's your suspension setup? If its not full house thats where i'd be throwing any lazy cash... But thats me :(

+1

i wouldnt bother spending more money for such little gains, not woth HP vs $$$

all depends on what you intend on using your car for, 273rwkw is plenty of fun for the street :spank:

:wave:

Dollars and major hastle... I wouldn't bother...

What ash said about rubber is a great point... But its a recurring investment... A turbo is a one off spend...

what do you intend on using the car for? I have the same turbo as you and a well sorted suspension setup and i can't really see the need for any more power on street tyres... hence me looking for a gtr atm... :spank:

how's your suspension setup? If its not full house thats where i'd be throwing any lazy cash... But thats me :wave:

I want to make it pretty much a straight line car. For this reason, I got the stock springs in the back, and a good bilstein shock setup all round.

I guess I'll see what I want to do after the cams go in. I would hate to get the 3037 and be disappointed as it wont have that much more power gain, with more lag.

Maybe it's time to upgrade to GTR? haha.

Thanks for the advice people.

dont we SA people need a race track before worrying about straight line performance?

sell it and get a garett 3582r-iw .82

boost will start low 2k

full boost before 4k, and potential for 350 rwkws.

i would think a 3582 at 15 - 18 psi would be smoother on the engine then a 3037 on 22 - 24 psi

thats why i allways stir up the gtrs lovers

after 6 months they upgrade,

following 6 months they upgrade again...

costs a fortune to upgrade dumps and lines every 6 months.

waste of time

stick a gt3582r-iw on it from the get go and just dont crank the boost as high.

when you rebuild and want more power turn the wik up. simple cost effective modding.

i would think a 3582 at 15 - 18 psi would be smoother on the engine then a 3037 on 22 - 24 psi

thats why i allways stir up the gtrs lovers

after 6 months they upgrade,

following 6 months they upgrade again...

costs a fortune to upgrade dumps and lines every 6 months.

waste of time

stick a gt3582r-iw on it from the get go and just dont crank the boost as high.

when you rebuild and want more power turn the wik up. simple cost effective modding.

GT35? That thing wouldn't even start to spool up until 3,500 rpm with a 2.5 litre engine? I don't want to have to be reving my car past 5K everywhere I go just to get it moving.

Anyway, I'll see how it goes after the cams get put in (30 Oct).

What is a slightly bigger turbo than the 3037 that HKS make as a bolt on application?

What is a slightly bigger turbo than the 3037 that HKS make as a bolt on application?

There is none, the 3037 is the biggest bolt on kit hks make for the rb25!

Ive recently been in a jzx100 with a 3037 pros and a 34 gtt with a 2835 pro s

the 34 was much nicer to driver round town than the 100

and the 3037 was fairly lazy and thats on a vvti late model 1j

it did get abit hairy compared to the 34 which just seemed to keep pulling

they ended up making similar power to on the same dyno

low 250's on a mainline both standard internals at sensible boost levels i.e 1.2 ish

(3037 was the bigger .86 rear housing)

Edited by 1400r

the 3037 is not lazy in my engine it comes on hard and early all the way to 8,000 rpm

if you get the right money for the old set up do it.

or get your self a nos kit

Edited by WARLORD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...