Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Recently on a long track, the Apexi AVC-R (EBC) fitted in my R34 GTT, clocked 302km/h as the top speed during the length of the Journey, i have an after market Nismo Meter which shows speeds upto 300Km/h but unfortunately i was lookin on the track and not the speedometer. Although I do remember shifting to the fifth gear cause the revs were upto 6.7 on the 4th gear (never had to floor car above 4th gear) and after shifting into 5th i was still pushing on the pedal.

As for other mods, the car has a Front Mount Intercooler, the Apexi EBC as listed above, full 3.5inch cat back exhaust and was running it on 0.76 Kg/cm2 Boost.

Do you guys think the AVC-R has recorded some false value? or is 302km/h a comfortable speed for the RB25DETT engine? the car is 1998 so the engine is not brand new?

Any expert opinion or comments guys? im confused?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240286-r34-gtt-top-speed/
Share on other sites

whats your diff ratio, and tire size? work out your theoretical geared top speed

then you will need to find out your drag coefficient which isnt usually very accessible data unless you either

1. have a wind tunnel

2. find your actual top speed and have accurate power figures as well

ps. 302kmh is approx 187mph thats pretty fast for a standard skyline

two main components for calculating theoretical top speed

rolling resistance

drag due to air resistance

rolling resistance is fairly linear so easy to calculate

drag due to air resistance has a cube relationship to speed.

so the increase of 250kmh to 300kmh is a factor of 1.2

the power increase you need is the cube of this factor (1.2) = 1.728

using very average numbers for coefficient of friction, average combustion efficiency and average drivetrain losses, you need 408hp (flywheel hp) to reach 187mph. very rough numbers though but just to give you the scale of things.

Edited by clip14

Hmm interesting thread... *subscribing*

I hit 265km/hr on a pretty worked RB25 before... that was the reading off my F-CON Navigator (I only have a 180km/hr dash), and am not sure if its entirely accurate.

...not with a 3.6 diff

BTW Thelma & Louise didn't even reach that speed in the last few seconds in the T-Bird!

In reply to the post above,

the T-Bird after leaving the cliff will accelerate to the point of terminal velocity where the wind resistance balances out the gravitational pull.

The T-Bird's terminal velocity would be a maximum of 60m/sec = 135mph = 216Km/Hr >_<

  • 6 months later...
speed limter? no mention of an aftermarket ecu?? and nothing about removing speed limiter.. so i assume max speed at 180... if not i don't think you'd get that speed on 0.76 Boost...

The speed limiter isn't in place and its an after market Nismo Speedometer so reads upto 320km/h and yes its calibrated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...