Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Johnny - I disagree 15w is too thick for a turbo, if you heard metal grinding on the turbo like you posted I'd say it';s a fair chance you had stuffed turbo bearings that would not be caused by the weight of the oil (cheap oil maybe?). I have run a 300V 15W-50 thru my pair of HKS 2530s for 5 years and they are both in perfect working order.

Hey man, my experience was on an s15 with a t28 so might be a bit different??? I had some motul 15w50 and when i put it in the turbo made a 'metallic rattle for a few seconds'

next morning it did the same thing and the car would be hesitant to rev when i drove it.

Immediately switched to a 5w40 and problem solved.

I didnt know 300v made a 15w50; is it any good? hows it on coldstart?

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

castrol edge is rubbish imo. they spend a shitload more on marketing and BS advertisments than they do on making good oil. the cheap motul oils like turbolight are rubbish. the 300V is 100% synthetic ester and is head and shoulders above anything else i've used. it's the top of the tree. most of the other so called synthetics are not a full synthetic and are blended rubbish.

i put 300V in the legacy GT (JDM liberty GT basically) my mum drives! i put it in the lowly silvia which makes 230rwkw and needs a decent oil as it's running a trust turbo kit which relies on the engine oil for turbo lube and turbo cooling. and I have used it in the GTR(s) from day 1. never had a problem with any of them. I even did a UOA (used oil analysis) some time ago and the results were good. :D if you care about and value your engine 300V (in the appropriate weight) is the way to go. and the myth about it not lasting long as it's a race oil is rubbish. it's just a very good oil and will last longer than a poor one and still have all it's great properties (high film strength etc).

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...