Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr True Power

Turbo Piston
 Share

Recommended Posts

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted

206kW was the "gentlemans agreement" between all jap car manufacturer's. So cars like gtr, evo supra's etc all will quote 206kW. But guess what...

I have heard that the R34 GTR was released claiming it had 206 Kw. But when they places it on the dyno, it actually had 244Kw, is that true?

Or 280HP but truly had 327 HP!?!

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
I have heard that the R34 GTR was released claiming it had 206 Kw. But when they places it on the dyno, it actually had 244Kw, is that true?

Or 280HP but truly had 327 HP!?!

I read that too, on Wikipedia tho and I don't really count Wiki as solid info.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

would seem that the gentlemans agreement was more to be 'kind' to the opposing car manufacturers; Japanese culture is very different to western business and seems to include more morals and integrity.

Same as the new GTR; no-one knows how much power it really makes as every engine is different.

An RB26 would definitely make over 240kw standard; thats without any mods

baron25 Proficient

baron25

Posted
Posted

i'm sure someone will correct me here, as i've never owned a GTR (or looked inside a standard one), but i read somewhere Nissan were kind enough to mark the restrictor in the boost control line so it was easy to remove, thus returning the engine to it's intended power.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yes the boost restrictor is marked on the line. I have owned quite a few GTRs now. 32, 33 and 34 and have had a standard 32, standard 33 and standard 34. I would agree they do have more than 206kw at the engine standard, but I don't think it's 240 or 260, I would say around 210-220 for 32s about 220 for 33s and about 230-235 for 34s. but what they really did was add a couple of basic resitrctions to bring the cars fown to the 206kw limit. so with a free flowing exhaust and 4 pounds more boost you get great gains. an extra 30-40kws just with those mods.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well that's kind of an individual choice! but personally yeah I think it's ok. providing you get the car checked on the dyno when you remove it. check the AFR, knock, and boost level. providing the boost is not going past 14psi and the AFR is ok and there is no knock then go for it. enjoy some free power. just be aware that any 32 with standard turbos is a bit of hit and miss. some will blow a turbo even at standard boost. some will live for years and years on 15psi with no problems. so if we are talking R32 (or even R33 really) then do it at your own risk!

  • 1 month later...
pepe lopez Community Regular

pepe lopez

Posted
Posted

Ben at RacePace put my 100% stock R34 GTR on his dyno and it made 211 rwkw. I fitted a HKS cat back and boost has now hit 1.2 bar, so I'm guessing it makes a bit more now.

The 211rwkw figure was made with stock airbox and panel filter, shitty compliance cat, stock exhaust, 180km restricted. The motor had 59,000kms on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...