Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am wanting to install the stealth Just Jap intercooler onto my r33 GTS-t series 2...... only thing is i have a gtr front bar on it at the moment.... do you recon it will fit? and how easy is it to fit on the car? are the brackets useful or do you have to make up a bracket?

also anyone in sydney wanna help a brother out if i get stuck????

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241172-just-jap-stealth-intercooler/
Share on other sites

i had one on my car before

i have a r33 series 1, it fitted perfectly

i also had a gtr front bar on the front

i didnt need to make any brackets i just used the ones that came in the kit

only thing i had to do was slightly move the drivers side horn, had to bend the bracket a little bit

I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :blink:

post-51176-1224627305_thumb.jpg

post-51176-1224627336_thumb.jpg

I've got one as well

have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I haven't noticed lag issues at all...

After installling the kit, boost has considerably increased. In cold weather my 33 boosts around 11-12psi- and thats with the standard solenoid (no aftermarket boost controller)- dont ask me how... its nice but!

overall, response has definitely improved.

the kit was quite easy to install. I didnt use all of the brackets, nuts and other bits that came with the kit, i bolted the cooler straight up from its top bracket onto the front centre chassis bracket (that mounts horn, bonnet latch etc.), and from memory- used tech screws to mount the bottom left cooler bracket to part of the lower left vehicle chassis. It sits nice & tight, wont move without some decent force

quick snap:

sorry bout bad quality - camera phone!

post-16018-1224635452_thumb.jpg

have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I have noticed only the smallest amount of lag. Then again, I'm still running stock boost so the lag effects will be minimal anyway.

One thing you will definately notice is the change in temperature between the supply and return pipes of the intercooler. After a decent drive, you'll notice the pipe coming from the turbo is f**king hot to touch where as the other pipe is significantly cooler.

Just make sure you test drive the car before putting the bumper back on... last thing you want is to put everything back together and then have a clamp come loose.

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

anyway thanks guys what i have figured out from your pics is once i have my front kit taken off it is straight forward to install....

any more pics and close ups would be good aswell

hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

You'll only notice a slight bit of lag compared to your SMIC, since its piping is minimal.

There's no difference in lag between a stealth FMIC and a GT spec FMIC. Some say one set-up may have the slightest improvement over the other but then again, that's debatable.

The main reason you'd buy the stealth set-up is so you don't have to cut any holes into your baby...

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

its all cool were all friends in here mate...

also i'm wanting the stealth one because i'll get improvement over the side mount, but also it isn't as obvious to see, no holes being cut into the car.... from what i have rsearched there isn't much difference in getting the stealth cooler as opposed to a big brand normal fmic for twice the price or more unless you race it allot and its not the best for repeated drags.... but for a drag every once in a while, for a street car, and as a novice race car it is good enough.... also i see it would be much easier to get engineerd seing as no new holse are cut for the pipeing....

i'm going to get the stealth on saturday morning from just jap but i won't have time to fit it for a while, gives me plenty of time to plan it

by the way its going to get painted black for maximum stealth

let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :D

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :/

Hope you turned those pipe clamp bolt heads aroundat the base of the IC.

let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :ninja:

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

i looked into that,,, not really that much better, i would have rather done that but when you look at the stats (yes its an improvement on the r33, but it will also not provide enough cold air for the turbo and shit if i high flow the turbo and increase the boost or get a bigger turbo) I just thought i'd get it done once instead of one day having to put an fmic anyway later down the track..... but hell yeah i will post pics and if i'm successfull with it i'll be sure to help other with there one.

Aussi13 wanna do yours and mine at the same time???

Tom if i had the money id be down at justjap now buying it and we could do them together. but lack of funds is killing me... and the fact that im in dire need of a new clutch which will drain more from my non existant money. lol. sorry mate.

anyway i picked it up, didn't get a discount..... found out a couple hours before a friend get his for $50 cheaper with sau discount, which i showed my sau card..... so wtf???? the build quality and finish of the cooler is pretty poor, especially for the price, i'd expect a $299-399 price tag at maximum with the build quality of this fmic. for another $100 on top i could have got a brand name cooler with the same style pipeing with a much better finish and doesn't look like its going to fall apart....

either way i'm going to compare with my friends to see if i got a one off example, honestly the thing looks ugly and is way overpriced for what i got, i really expected it to be better than it is.... but at the end of the day aslong as it does the job well i'll live with it.

still pissed how they treat different customers with different rules, especially in this scene where word spreads quick and everyone knows one another.... and i'm polite when i meet people, and have already spent over $1000 with jj before this purchase on pipes, cat and a gtr indicator that i had no choice but to pay through the nose... still just having a winge, overall ive had good experince with them but just felt that this time i wasn't wanted on the premises, and got alittle ripped off..... and no i didnt turn up 5 minutes before they closed, it was an hour before they closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...