Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am wanting to install the stealth Just Jap intercooler onto my r33 GTS-t series 2...... only thing is i have a gtr front bar on it at the moment.... do you recon it will fit? and how easy is it to fit on the car? are the brackets useful or do you have to make up a bracket?

also anyone in sydney wanna help a brother out if i get stuck????

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241172-just-jap-stealth-intercooler/
Share on other sites

i had one on my car before

i have a r33 series 1, it fitted perfectly

i also had a gtr front bar on the front

i didnt need to make any brackets i just used the ones that came in the kit

only thing i had to do was slightly move the drivers side horn, had to bend the bracket a little bit

I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :blink:

post-51176-1224627305_thumb.jpg

post-51176-1224627336_thumb.jpg

I've got one as well

have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I haven't noticed lag issues at all...

After installling the kit, boost has considerably increased. In cold weather my 33 boosts around 11-12psi- and thats with the standard solenoid (no aftermarket boost controller)- dont ask me how... its nice but!

overall, response has definitely improved.

the kit was quite easy to install. I didnt use all of the brackets, nuts and other bits that came with the kit, i bolted the cooler straight up from its top bracket onto the front centre chassis bracket (that mounts horn, bonnet latch etc.), and from memory- used tech screws to mount the bottom left cooler bracket to part of the lower left vehicle chassis. It sits nice & tight, wont move without some decent force

quick snap:

sorry bout bad quality - camera phone!

post-16018-1224635452_thumb.jpg

have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I have noticed only the smallest amount of lag. Then again, I'm still running stock boost so the lag effects will be minimal anyway.

One thing you will definately notice is the change in temperature between the supply and return pipes of the intercooler. After a decent drive, you'll notice the pipe coming from the turbo is f**king hot to touch where as the other pipe is significantly cooler.

Just make sure you test drive the car before putting the bumper back on... last thing you want is to put everything back together and then have a clamp come loose.

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

anyway thanks guys what i have figured out from your pics is once i have my front kit taken off it is straight forward to install....

any more pics and close ups would be good aswell

hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

You'll only notice a slight bit of lag compared to your SMIC, since its piping is minimal.

There's no difference in lag between a stealth FMIC and a GT spec FMIC. Some say one set-up may have the slightest improvement over the other but then again, that's debatable.

The main reason you'd buy the stealth set-up is so you don't have to cut any holes into your baby...

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

its all cool were all friends in here mate...

also i'm wanting the stealth one because i'll get improvement over the side mount, but also it isn't as obvious to see, no holes being cut into the car.... from what i have rsearched there isn't much difference in getting the stealth cooler as opposed to a big brand normal fmic for twice the price or more unless you race it allot and its not the best for repeated drags.... but for a drag every once in a while, for a street car, and as a novice race car it is good enough.... also i see it would be much easier to get engineerd seing as no new holse are cut for the pipeing....

i'm going to get the stealth on saturday morning from just jap but i won't have time to fit it for a while, gives me plenty of time to plan it

by the way its going to get painted black for maximum stealth

let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :D

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :/

Hope you turned those pipe clamp bolt heads aroundat the base of the IC.

let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :ninja:

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

i looked into that,,, not really that much better, i would have rather done that but when you look at the stats (yes its an improvement on the r33, but it will also not provide enough cold air for the turbo and shit if i high flow the turbo and increase the boost or get a bigger turbo) I just thought i'd get it done once instead of one day having to put an fmic anyway later down the track..... but hell yeah i will post pics and if i'm successfull with it i'll be sure to help other with there one.

Aussi13 wanna do yours and mine at the same time???

Tom if i had the money id be down at justjap now buying it and we could do them together. but lack of funds is killing me... and the fact that im in dire need of a new clutch which will drain more from my non existant money. lol. sorry mate.

anyway i picked it up, didn't get a discount..... found out a couple hours before a friend get his for $50 cheaper with sau discount, which i showed my sau card..... so wtf???? the build quality and finish of the cooler is pretty poor, especially for the price, i'd expect a $299-399 price tag at maximum with the build quality of this fmic. for another $100 on top i could have got a brand name cooler with the same style pipeing with a much better finish and doesn't look like its going to fall apart....

either way i'm going to compare with my friends to see if i got a one off example, honestly the thing looks ugly and is way overpriced for what i got, i really expected it to be better than it is.... but at the end of the day aslong as it does the job well i'll live with it.

still pissed how they treat different customers with different rules, especially in this scene where word spreads quick and everyone knows one another.... and i'm polite when i meet people, and have already spent over $1000 with jj before this purchase on pipes, cat and a gtr indicator that i had no choice but to pay through the nose... still just having a winge, overall ive had good experince with them but just felt that this time i wasn't wanted on the premises, and got alittle ripped off..... and no i didnt turn up 5 minutes before they closed, it was an hour before they closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...