Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Jap Stealth Intercooler

Kujotk

By Kujotk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

I am wanting to install the stealth Just Jap intercooler onto my r33 GTS-t series 2...... only thing is i have a gtr front bar on it at the moment.... do you recon it will fit? and how easy is it to fit on the car? are the brackets useful or do you have to make up a bracket?

also anyone in sydney wanna help a brother out if i get stuck????

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241172-just-jap-stealth-intercooler/
Share on other sites
Tebie Rising Star

Tebie

Posted
Posted

i had one on my car before

i have a r33 series 1, it fitted perfectly

i also had a gtr front bar on the front

i didnt need to make any brackets i just used the ones that came in the kit

only thing i had to do was slightly move the drivers side horn, had to bend the bracket a little bit

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted

I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :blink:

post-51176-1224627305_thumb.jpg

post-51176-1224627336_thumb.jpg

Luciano Veteran

Luciano

Posted
Posted

I've got one as well

have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I haven't noticed lag issues at all...

After installling the kit, boost has considerably increased. In cold weather my 33 boosts around 11-12psi- and thats with the standard solenoid (no aftermarket boost controller)- dont ask me how... its nice but!

overall, response has definitely improved.

the kit was quite easy to install. I didnt use all of the brackets, nuts and other bits that came with the kit, i bolted the cooler straight up from its top bracket onto the front centre chassis bracket (that mounts horn, bonnet latch etc.), and from memory- used tech screws to mount the bottom left cooler bracket to part of the lower left vehicle chassis. It sits nice & tight, wont move without some decent force

quick snap:

sorry bout bad quality - camera phone!

post-16018-1224635452_thumb.jpg

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted
have you noticed much lag due to the extra piping?

I have noticed only the smallest amount of lag. Then again, I'm still running stock boost so the lag effects will be minimal anyway.

One thing you will definately notice is the change in temperature between the supply and return pipes of the intercooler. After a decent drive, you'll notice the pipe coming from the turbo is f**king hot to touch where as the other pipe is significantly cooler.

Just make sure you test drive the car before putting the bumper back on... last thing you want is to put everything back together and then have a clamp come loose.

MissTara Enthusiast

MissTara

Posted
Posted

think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

anyway thanks guys what i have figured out from your pics is once i have my front kit taken off it is straight forward to install....

any more pics and close ups would be good aswell

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted
hahahaha i was thinking the same thing but then i thought mabey i was wrong for thinking there isn't much difference in pipe length, it just looks allot longer because you see it, it might be a little longer but nothing much longger....

You'll only notice a slight bit of lag compared to your SMIC, since its piping is minimal.

There's no difference in lag between a stealth FMIC and a GT spec FMIC. Some say one set-up may have the slightest improvement over the other but then again, that's debatable.

The main reason you'd buy the stealth set-up is so you don't have to cut any holes into your baby...

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted
think about where the bloody pipe go's, if you by a normal kit, that you have to cut near your battery try, its exactly the same leangth. omg, how can people be so dumb. the only difference would be if you had a forward facing plenum. instead with the stealth, the intercooler pipe runs along the bottom rather than along the top near your rad. also boost will spike a bit when you install a front mount, thats what i have found anyways. best bet is to get an ebc.

i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i was asking due to the fact that i am tossing up between this stealth one or just buying a forward facing with a normal intercooler. no need 2 be bitchy about it. simple question. simple answer. and i got my answer b4 u posted.

its all cool were all friends in here mate...

also i'm wanting the stealth one because i'll get improvement over the side mount, but also it isn't as obvious to see, no holes being cut into the car.... from what i have rsearched there isn't much difference in getting the stealth cooler as opposed to a big brand normal fmic for twice the price or more unless you race it allot and its not the best for repeated drags.... but for a drag every once in a while, for a street car, and as a novice race car it is good enough.... also i see it would be much easier to get engineerd seing as no new holse are cut for the pipeing....

i'm going to get the stealth on saturday morning from just jap but i won't have time to fit it for a while, gives me plenty of time to plan it

by the way its going to get painted black for maximum stealth

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :D

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted
I've just installed my one on Saturday with no problem, and with the assistance of stokesy and a couple of other mates.

I can't say much about the GTR bumper since I've kept my stock one.

The brackets that come with the kit, help a lot. You will have to move the horns and trim a slight bit off the reo bar.

One problem I did experience though, was the centre top attachment on the cooler didn't line up with the horn bracket as the horn bracket isn't located directly in the centre. This meant I had to cable-tie it with 5-6 cable ties (that also come with the kit). Now it sits there nice and steady.

Have a look at the pics I've attached, they're not "turtorial" style pics, but hopefully can still give you an idea. Plus, if you need a tutorial, try this one by Black Warrior;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...rcooler+install

Cheers. :/

Hope you turned those pipe clamp bolt heads aroundat the base of the IC.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
let us know how it goes tom and chuck some pics up wen completed too!! :ninja:

was thinking also about gettin the r34 smic and replacing the standard. have heard good results and its cheaper yet again (around 150 to 200). but then again... it doesnt have the big F**Koff frount mount look. lol

i looked into that,,, not really that much better, i would have rather done that but when you look at the stats (yes its an improvement on the r33, but it will also not provide enough cold air for the turbo and shit if i high flow the turbo and increase the boost or get a bigger turbo) I just thought i'd get it done once instead of one day having to put an fmic anyway later down the track..... but hell yeah i will post pics and if i'm successfull with it i'll be sure to help other with there one.

Aussi13 wanna do yours and mine at the same time???

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

Tom if i had the money id be down at justjap now buying it and we could do them together. but lack of funds is killing me... and the fact that im in dire need of a new clutch which will drain more from my non existant money. lol. sorry mate.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

anyway i picked it up, didn't get a discount..... found out a couple hours before a friend get his for $50 cheaper with sau discount, which i showed my sau card..... so wtf???? the build quality and finish of the cooler is pretty poor, especially for the price, i'd expect a $299-399 price tag at maximum with the build quality of this fmic. for another $100 on top i could have got a brand name cooler with the same style pipeing with a much better finish and doesn't look like its going to fall apart....

either way i'm going to compare with my friends to see if i got a one off example, honestly the thing looks ugly and is way overpriced for what i got, i really expected it to be better than it is.... but at the end of the day aslong as it does the job well i'll live with it.

still pissed how they treat different customers with different rules, especially in this scene where word spreads quick and everyone knows one another.... and i'm polite when i meet people, and have already spent over $1000 with jj before this purchase on pipes, cat and a gtr indicator that i had no choice but to pay through the nose... still just having a winge, overall ive had good experince with them but just felt that this time i wasn't wanted on the premises, and got alittle ripped off..... and no i didnt turn up 5 minutes before they closed, it was an hour before they closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...