Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the photos, Satanic.

I was trying to figure how it would fit under the boot hinges.

I guess its quite different from the R33, where that had a bracket that sticks out as well.

From the photos, you had to cut the lining right? Just a small slit?

Yeah, the rear strut doesnt do much.

My R33 felt the same when I installed one.

Mainly for looks. :ninja:

Damn, why cant Nissan make more parts compatible between the R33 and R34 :down:

i hear that it makes little to no difference...front strut and sways will be all u need...after coilovers or a spring/shock combo of course...

Can confirm that.

The front strut made a massive difference... best bang for buck in regards to handling mods for sure! 2nd hand cusco front strut braces are 100-150 depending on condition. Piece of cake to install as well.. Not sure why these didnt come stock ?

Does the strut make much of a difference? Keen to put one in mine when I can.

Made heaps of difference on mine, tightened up the rear end a lot.

i hear that it makes little to no difference...front strut and sways will be all u need...after coilovers or a spring/shock combo of course...

You're hearing wrong... and no, those parts are not ALL you need... furthermore, R34s came standard with a front strut brace that more than does the job, why the hell would you replace it? So tell me why you'd NEED to do that?

Thanks for the photos, Satanic.

I was trying to figure how it would fit under the boot hinges.

I guess its quite different from the R33, where that had a bracket that sticks out as well.

From the photos, you had to cut the lining right? Just a small slit?

Yeah quick n easy install... those photos are almost 2 years old now. Some dude who did it in Japan had to grind away the edges on the brackets as he was fitting it to a 4 door. As for the trimming, you are spot on, just a small cut here n there so the brackets fit through.

Can confirm that.

The front strut made a massive difference... best bang for buck in regards to handling mods for sure! 2nd hand cusco front strut braces are 100-150 depending on condition. Piece of cake to install as well.. Not sure why these didnt come stock ?

Are you talking about the same car here? R34s did come standard with a front strut brace, not sure how that can be "bang for buck".

Are you talking about the same car here? R34s did come standard with a front strut brace, not sure how that can be "bang for buck".

Obviously not.

You can clearly see my avatar has an r33 in it.

and under that it says my car is a r33.

so now you can see how its a bang for buck handling product.

If your car has a subframe that all the rear suspension arms bolt onto, the rear strut brace does nothing as the subframe provides excellent rigidity. If the upper arms bolt onto the body (like in the front) then it would be worthwhile.

Remove rear trims... all will be revealed. On each side there are 2 threaded rods poking out, this is where the Cusco brackets bolt to. It's almost as if Nissan was going to put that exact item there, but ran out of money or something.

Made heaps of difference on mine, tightened up the rear end a lot.

You're hearing wrong... and no, those parts are not ALL you need... furthermore, R34s came standard with a front strut brace that more than does the job, why the hell would you replace it? So tell me why you'd NEED to do that?

Yeah quick n easy install... those photos are almost 2 years old now. Some dude who did it in Japan had to grind away the edges on the brackets as he was fitting it to a 4 door. As for the trimming, you are spot on, just a small cut here n there so the brackets fit through.

Are you talking about the same car here? R34s did come standard with a front strut brace, not sure how that can be "bang for buck".

Umm...relax? I read/heard from SydneyKid's threads...so go tell him he's wrong. I'm just passing on what I heard/read. I didn't say R34's didn't come with one standard...nor did i say it needed to be replaced...I was simply saying that thats probably all he would need for a decent setup...

  • 8 months later...

a bit of an old dig up on a thread (although i thought better reviving one then making a duplicate).

my question is where can i get one of these rear strut braces...i know cusco make them but cant find one...

cheers in advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...