Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 12 years later...
On 17/07/2021 at 5:52 AM, schowdhry said:

hello from the year 2021 blind elk if your still on here i need your help! i have just swapped the rb25 neo into my gts4, all the mechanical work is done but i need help with wiring up the ecu! 

@blind_elk

  • 7 months later...
On 17/07/2021 at 6:22 AM, schowdhry said:

hello from the year 2021 blind elk if your still on here i need your help! i have just swapped the rb25 neo into my gts4, all the mechanical work is done but i need help with wiring up the ecu! 

Are you available to chat with about this conversion ??

  • 2 months later...
On 11/16/2008 at 3:16 PM, blind_elk said:

Sorry, but that's rubbish. When I did the swap in mine, it all just swapped over.

This is Rubbish information and basically screwed up my build plans. 

 

RB25DET (Neo) does not use the same AWD oil pan as the RB20.  The Pan's do not swap. Bolt holes are not aligned. I'll have more photos when I pick it up from the shop. 

 

So to be specific as possible, since every thread I find about this information is vague and useless. 

 

 

1989 GTS-4 Coupe - AWD - Turbo RB20DET 5spd Manual. 

Engine  - RB25DET NEO - Stagea - most likely automatic car. 

 

Car in Question 

 

IMG_20210510_152439.thumb.jpg.067204d9eb6cb415c07435d06db840f1.jpg

 

Engine

IMG_20210429_122841.thumb.jpg.d39938a742f75efc3df061314ffa2659.jpg

RB25DET NEO AWD PAN

20220518_171456.thumb.jpg.73818ee2fb8d51101fa0f6d4a6ab45e7.jpg

RB20DET AWD PAN

20220518_171538.thumb.jpg.291f0f04d4d14ad2c6cf598be6b25d78.jpg

On 7/16/2021 at 1:22 PM, schowdhry said:

hello from the year 2021 blind elk if your still on here i need your help! i have just swapped the rb25 neo into my gts4, all the mechanical work is done but i need help with wiring up the ecu! 

Did you swap the Ring and Pinion? 

 

How much a PITA Is it to shim the front differential. From what I can tell there is two thrust washer with 6 various sizes each for sides and two washers with almost 10 each options for the pinion depth along with a pinion sleeve that comes in 6 sizes. 

There is almost 1.65mm of depth tolerance stacking and with each of these washers/shims running for $5, that's almost $500 to get enough to play whack a mole with setting up the R&P pattern. 

On 5/20/2022 at 1:05 PM, corbic said:

There is almost 1.65mm of depth tolerance stacking and with each of these washers/shims running for $5, that's almost $500 to get enough to play whack a mole with setting up the R&P pattern.

That's why I always just give it to my trusted diff guy to put my Frankendiffs back together.

On 5/19/2022 at 10:19 PM, GTSBoy said:

That's why I always just give it to my trusted diff guy to put my Frankendiffs back together.

I'm state side, so while I have two great diff shops near by, neither is going to stock GTR/Nissan shims. 

On 5/19/2022 at 10:47 PM, GTSBoy said:

No, but they can use whatever shim they have, measure the difference with feeler gauges (or whatever alternative approach they may choose) and then buy appropriate shims as required. Not really any different over here.

Shims are unique to the GTR/Nissan.  A local shop may determine that a longer sleeve is needed, but they are not going to be able to call up NAPA Auto Parts or a Nissan Dealer and pick up a sleeve. 

Also, looking at the FSM - it looks like there is a pressed on bearing for the Snub - sooo I doubt any shop is going to have a dummy bearing to get the initial depth without having to press on - press off the bearing a dozen times. 

 

$150/hr experimenting with all this is going to turn into a $2000 shop bill real quick if I went that route. 

 

 

Le sigh. The shim you want to leave in there may unique to the R200. But I can guarantee you that any decent shop will have OTHER SHIMS THAT WILL FIT, even if they have to bore the inner diameter out or scrape some off the outer diameter, to use as a bloody reference.

It hasn't cost me much to have my trusted diff shop do it.

  • 1 month later...

As you can see the Pan's are completely different. The RB25 pan is a different bolt pattern and the axle tube + differential are mounted forward.  The Axle is nearly touching the oil sump and there is an additional 3 inch gap between the differential flange and the end bellhousing plane. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...