Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so R34 GTR has better dump pipes than R32 and R33 GTR ??

my car is stock at the moment apart from Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust , K&N panel filter and 100mm thick intercooler

during the day boost peaks at 1.1bar and at night 1.25bar

and i dont have a boost controller .... :happy:

what should i do ??

Check around under the bonnet for a manual bleed/tap boost control valve just incase you haven't spotted one hiding under there. Don't quote me on this but even if you flick out the factory boost selenoid it should only run about 1bar boost???

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HKS GT-SS Turbos

NISMO 600cc Injectors

NISMO fuel pump

Apexi Power FC & Hand Controller

Trust Oil Cooler

Then Trust Profec B Spec II boost controller running @ 1.2 BAR.

Should produce some decent power/reliability then eh??? Or am I missing somthing here? :)

I'm not that experienced, but my own 34GTR is being modified along similar lines, and my impression is:

Instead of the Profec B, why don't you just get the optional PowerFC boost controller. You're already getting the hand controller to control it with.

And with that set-up I don't think an upgraded fuel pump will make any difference.

Grab a HKS EVC, great controller and quite stealthy; they use a stepper motor instead of a solenoid which is meant to be faster at controlling gate vs rpm vs boost vs load etc

ummm yeah, i turned mine down like i said for daily driving to pretty much stock level as it feels better for road use (low rpm changes)

Grab a HKS EVC, great controller and quite stealthy; they use a stepper motor instead of a solenoid which is meant to be faster at controlling gate vs rpm vs boost vs load etc

my understanding was the opposite, that a (dual) solenoid is much faster than a stepper. A stepper is like a servo: it turns to vary the degree of opening. A solenoid is practically instant: from fully closed to fully open. So it cycles very quickly between the two states to simulate any condition required. My hunch is it comes to the programming of the unit - i expect both under the right cpu control can do what it takes - but it makes sense to me that a solenoid can switch to whatever degree of impediment required within a fraction of a second vs a stepper which has to, well, step...

Ok I had Garrett check the part number on the turbo I have here. The turbo is straight off a series 1 R34GTR Vspec. The turbine wheel is the same one used in the S15 turbo so they said it is steel. They also said that ANY GARRETT TURBO that has a ball bearing cartridge will be steel wheel. The R34GTR Turbos are all ball bearing and all made by Garrett. I'm having the exact dimensions faxed and emailed to me so I'll put up them when I can. The Garrett part number on this R34 turbo cartridge is 702987-3. It is a smaller turbo than a 707160-7.

To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel.

**EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol.

I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath.

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

I hope this information is useful to everyone.

Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.

To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel.

**EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol.

I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath.

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

I hope this information is useful to everyone.

Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.

You are being informed by idiots... TRUST ME I have seen it with my own eyes and so have others that they are ceramic on the exhaust side (not inlet). The way it destroys your motor is when the turbine wheels flies apart your instant reaction is to back off since it makes a bad noise and creates a bit of vacuum inconjunction with a turbine blade that has just literally disintegrated at 100,000rpm. The result is the bits go back into the bore and scratch the hell out your bore.

We are only saying this so you don't end up getting punished with an engine rebuild because you have been told the wrong thing. You can choose not to believe us if you want- your call.

You are being informed by idiots... TRUST ME I have seen it with my own eyes and so have others that they are ceramic on the exhaust side (not inlet). The way it destroys your motor is when the turbine wheels flies apart your instant reaction is to back off since it makes a bad noise and creates a bit of vacuum inconjunction with a turbine blade that has just literally disintegrated at 100,000rpm. The result is the bits go back into the bore and scratch the hell out your bore.

We are only saying this so you don't end up getting punished with an engine rebuild because you have been told the wrong thing. You can choose not to believe us if you want- your call.

Thanks for the explanation.

But do we really have to go through this again and again.

I'm not some kind of idiot that just walked in off the street. I am a Garrett distributor and Garrett themselves have that turbo listed as having a steel wheel. They make the turbo, I think they would know what they put in it. If you want to ring Garrett and tell them they are idiots, then go right ahead.

*waits for Dirt to tell me it's some kind of marketing device*

By the way ^^^ that's a joke so don't get all cranky at me.

Good Morning Daniel,

702987-5003 R34 GTR V-SPEC FACTORY

Turbocharger as advised by Garrett Australia is ball bearing and has a steel

turbine wheel from the factory.

Compressor Wheel

Ind – 39.60mm

Exd – 56.00mm

Turbine Wheel

Exd – 41.73mm (same as Jap Spec S15)

707160-5007 – GT2860R (GTR upgrade)

Compressor Wheel

Ind – 44.59mm

Exd – 60.00mm

Turbine Wheel

Exd – 42.40mm

From Garrett ^^

Hear your pain... Clearly coming from the horses mouth but I still don't believe it only because I have seen it with my own eyes.

Maybe like ADM s15's (some came with ball bearing and some came with plain bearing turbos) there is some odd balls (like your example) with steel wheels.

I don't get it.

Hear your pain... Clearly coming from the horses mouth but I still don't believe it only because I have seen it with my own eyes.

Maybe like ADM s15's (some came with ball bearing and some came with plain bearing turbos) there is some odd balls (like your example) with steel wheels.

I don't get it.

That is why it is important to have the part number checked. Just because one is, doesn't mean all are

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

Did they mean you will get greater resistance with Inconel seeing as it's very much like nichrome wire? Both will conduct, just steel should give literally 0 ohms...Inconel will give a value of sorts (depending on how far apart you measure depends on how high an ohms reading you get)

Did they mean you will get greater resistance with Inconel seeing as it's very much like nichrome wire? Both will conduct, just steel should give literally 0 ohms...Inconel will give a value of sorts (depending on how far apart you measure depends on how high an ohms reading you get)

Yeah not too sure. They didn't really delve much into the metalurgy but I couldn't get a reading. possibly due to carbon buildup or possibly because of the inconel but the wheel does shine if you scratch it. Hard to check while the wheel is trying to turn and the scratch is so small.

Yeah not too sure. They didn't really delve much into the metalurgy but I couldn't get a reading. possibly due to carbon buildup or possibly because of the inconel but the wheel does shine if you scratch it. Hard to check while the wheel is trying to turn and the scratch is so small.

Tell the guy to stick a fork in a toaster and see if it conducts :) It's all Inconel (nichrome) wire in them :P

I'd say you've got poor contact that's all

my understanding was the opposite, that a (dual) solenoid is much faster than a stepper. A stepper is like a servo: it turns to vary the degree of opening. A solenoid is practically instant: from fully closed to fully open. So it cycles very quickly between the two states to simulate any condition required. My hunch is it comes to the programming of the unit - i expect both under the right cpu control can do what it takes - but it makes sense to me that a solenoid can switch to whatever degree of impediment required within a fraction of a second vs a stepper which has to, well, step...

Ummm URAS/trent seemed to think that dual solenoids were equal or better at controlling boost than a stepper + alot of highend skylines are using them.

I did say 'may' be better and specifically hks are very reputable so im happy with mine; great control!

The blitz id III is meant to be the top bolivian flake

Ok I had Garrett check the part number on the turbo I have here. The turbo is straight off a series 1 R34GTR Vspec. The turbine wheel is the same one used in the S15 turbo so they said it is steel. They also said that ANY GARRETT TURBO that has a ball bearing cartridge will be steel wheel. The R34GTR Turbos are all ball bearing and all made by Garrett. I'm having the exact dimensions faxed and emailed to me so I'll put up them when I can. The Garrett part number on this R34 turbo cartridge is 702987-3. It is a smaller turbo than a 707160-7.

Yo thanks for that info, ummm I seem to recall in a dvd that the r34 turbines used a ceramic exhaust wheel for better low down torque and the compressor wheel was ball bearing

Did you check the exhaust side?? or did i miss that

ummm anyways why would the engine blow if the turbine goes, the exhaust wheel would go first and pump out into the cat, the compressor wheel may/may not disintegrate and if it does would fly have to make it through the hot pipes/intercooler/cold pipe/plenum/throttles etc

All this while the engine is running very rich and will probably cut out.

Yo thanks for that info, ummm I seem to recall in a dvd that the r34 turbines used a ceramic exhaust wheel for better low down torque and the compressor wheel was ball bearing

Did you check the exhaust side?? or did i miss that

ummm anyways why would the engine blow if the turbine goes, the exhaust wheel would go first and pump out into the cat, the compressor wheel may/may not disintegrate and if it does would fly have to make it through the hot pipes/intercooler/cold pipe/plenum/throttles etc

All this while the engine is running very rich and will probably cut out.

I don't understand what you mean by ceramic turbine and ball bearing compressor wheel?

The compressor and turbine are joined by a shaft and the ball bearings are in the centre.

I have not been referring to the compressor wheel in any of my comments, only the turbine wheel.

They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...