Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im on the verge of having my RB26 rebuilt, so after calling numerous workshops (local and interstate) and after being given lots of different quotes i'm still undecided as to which workshop to use.

I was quite happy with the quote I was given by Adelaide Engine Developments, but haven't heard much about them prior to finding them in the yellow pages.

Basically im just wondering has anyone here had work done by them?

Any input would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242797-rb26-rebuild-advice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've recently spoken with Lewis engines and quite happy with their knowledge and development with the RB.

Fairly reasonably priced also.

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/

- http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm

Unsure why the rb26 rebuild is worth so much more than the rb25/30 rebuild.

As bodgy as it may appear I had my 30 bottom end built up by City Dismantlers.

They checked the motor out and then gave a solid quite. Didn't go over by $1. Less than 3 weeks later the motor was completed, strapped to a pallet wrapped up nicely.

gallery_382_2658_12249.jpg

All up back then inc. all the usual line bore (crank), forged pistons, rod resize, block & rod crack test, forged pistons, grub screw & king bearings cost me 3.9k to also fit the head and drill/tap the upper tensioner position.

Motors been good, always made good power and has done 100,000km's so far. :D

The same things done to the motor from Miltons they wanted 6.5k :S

Main reason I went with City's is the bloke who was in charge back then (Andrew) was able to answer any question I threw at him without hesitation. He had a history in speedway since a young kid and built many a few tough vlt's back in the day so he knew all the little tricks to perform with them.

They had what looked like new machinery, workshop was clean and organised. Some of the places I checked out I wouldn't be suprised if they lost bits. :S

Either way fixed price with no umm's or arr's, clean workshop, organised and the bloke was able to answer questions others were not able to won me over. ;)

Thats exactly why i'm leaning towards Adelaide Engine Developments, i've only had a chat with them over the phone.

But the guy I spoke to knew exactly what the go was, apparently they've done quite a few RB26 in the past, and the quote was... a fraction of some others I have received. :D

I'll be checking out their facilities next week

Edited by Tommmo

John moyle on main nth rd blair athol, is who built mine.

and remember the guy you talk to on the phone is normally just a salesman.

you need to talk one on one with the engine builder himself.

Dave at john moyle has been building, and dynoing speedway engines for nearly 40 yrs.

awesome price, awesome work, and a engine dyno if you want to run it in beforwe you install it.

highly recomended

places like bdt dont have a machine shop, so your paying for a middle man.

i dont see the point.

ill build ya stinker

i had chris miltons

do all the machine work on my 30det and i did all the assembaly etc .

made over 364rwkw on 18psi cost me less than $3500 to do the bottem end !

in the process of building another 30det to back up the fact i make killa motors

AED are decent, build HEAPS of big hp v8 motors, and jobbie works out of there (head porter). They would have a solid base to work from building a RB26. Could even tune and run in on the engine dyno if you desired. I would recommend also, tony knight engines and john keen for engine assembly. I know a guy building a LS1 stroker now, and is trying out lewis engines machining now, as we are getting sick of the pricing from rhemacs.

Cheers

troy you may be very well qualified to do engine assembly but it's amazing how many others think they can, and all they do is push brgs in, add a dob of oil, drop the crank in and torque to specs without using inside & outside mic's to check clearances, without checking endfloat, without checking for brg crush and even chipping the edges off scraper & segmental oil rings while pushing them into the bores. Just because the crank's been ground doesn't mean you don't still check everything.......9 times out of 10 main tunnels don't need line boring unless a brg has turned or been hammered.........that's why we do all the above checks.

Hence why it's a good idea to get the engine reconditioner to also assemble unless your a qualified mechanic or engine reconditioner IMO, so +1 dangerman4

thanks for the feedback guys, can someone pm contact details for John moyle.

Cant hurt to get another quote :(

John Moyle Motor Engineering

1a Collins St, Enfield, SA 5085

p: (08) 8269 3214 f: (08) 8344 1202

i supplied all the parts and they did all the machining and assembly of the short motor,

i suggest you do the same, as you know what parts you want and they know how to fit them.

ie rods , pistons, crank collar etc.

Once again thanks for the feedback, but i've decided to go with Adelaide Engine Developments. The guys there were very easy going, quick to answer all my questions and brought up issues I hadn't previously considered. The wokshop (be it small) is also quite well setup.

Engines being pulled out and tuesday! Looking forward to the whole build, hopefully there's not too many hickups!

thommo was the blokes name from adelaide engine developments name chris smith???? i beleive him and his mate run that business i work with chris up here and hes apparently good hes going to do a bit of my new motor im getting.

cheers... michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...