Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

True points, however i do appreciate when some one does the car up themselves, over just buying an allready modified car that has 400kw and thinks they are top shit yet knows nothing about any of the mods to the car. Not saying this is the point here, just saying i understand where BANGN is coming from.

Know exactly where you are coming from.

But if you think about it, a wanker is still going to act like one whether he builds the car himself or not. Building the car doesn't automatically make you worthy of appreciation or non-wankerdom.

All the blokes I know who have done cars up themselves nod silently together when one of says we should have paid someone else to be the poor sucker to do the job. That includes some guys who own their own workshops.

Think of it in performance terms to restoring a very old car. The best place to start ironically is with as plum an example as you can, as opposed to a completely rusted out shell. You spend less time and money getting to the 'first' destination, the journey has no end and the best parts are actually further down the track.

The thing is that you will still keep modifications going till you run out of money. It's a disease with no cure, only management. :D

I dont think it will cost 25K but who knows lol maybe after i do the fuel system, ecu, bar and plate cooler, radiator and wot not

well ur not going to make 500hp and keep it alive without them

^^ lol agreed :ninja:

I dont think it will cost 25K but who knows lol maybe after i do the fuel system, ecu, bar and plate cooler, radiator and wot not

Quit now then, and im serious.

Motor - 8000 in/out (26 rods/crank/forgies/N1pumps/mild head tidy etc)

Clutch - 1500

Diff - 1400

Injectors - 850

Pump - 300

Tyres - 1500

Suspension/Brakes - 4000

I/C + fitting - 1000+

Turbo - 2000

Manifold - 1500

W/gate - 700

Misc hosing/pipes/clamps etc - 500

ECU 1500

Now that’s $25,000

There will be stuff ive missed without question as I don’t have time to think about it all today.

Ive done it now, twice infact… although the 2nd time is cheaper as a lot of the stuff you already have (just need the motor)

But yeah, if you think your getting away with it cheap, your honestly kidding yourself for that power figure.

370rwkw/500rwhp is no joke. Requires solid parts, solid workmanship from a workshop/builder that KNOWS RB's.

piece of piss to put it bluntly.

you'll need forged rods, pistons, big port work, o/s valves, poncams, inlet manifold, gt35r with a decent manifold (6boost is the best), radiator and oil cooler to keep it alive, jun oil pump and oil system mods, fuel system thats up to the task.

or in money terms around 25k

finaltune001vw9.th.jpgfinaltune002lk0.th.jpg

Also agreed on the 25k part... although it can be a bit cheaper.

You can use GTR rods/N1 pump/stock cams, i did without problem (as many RB26 owners also). So a saving of ~2-3k

But yeah, end of the day, not cheap nor easy...

AND more to the point here you'll need to give it to someone who knows RB's IMO for a reliable 500rwhp motor.

A backyard build will have flaws.

Im only talking about the motor at the moment, when i get the car I will then worry about a radiator, suspension, brakes, exhaust, ecu I know i will spend about 13K on the motor alone before its even on the car so its in concideration I will be spending alot more once the assembled motor is in. This is all just prep work so It doesnt have to be done after I get the car.

so point has been made that Its possible for a 25 to reach 500hp, thats all i needed to know

now this is where my research begins as to what approach I will take.

Edited by BANGN

If thats all you wanted to know I would recommend reading the RB25 Dyno results thread should be quite a few ~500hp

I think there are even some stock internal 25's that have pushed out 500hp

Edited by dano4127
HOLY SHIT! Ever thought of putting individual throttles on the RB25? Not like it hasn't been done before...

Oh and the butterflies won't affect LAG or the BOOST THRESHOLD between either of them if built right.

It WILL affect throttle response... These are THREE totally different things.

yes i have... i looked into mating the 26 throttle butterflies to the 25 and basically its not cost effective OR easy.

it HAS been done... but is very rare.... ever wonder why greddy plenums are a lot more common?

also you kind of missed my point... i was saying that you can get the same result with a BUILT 25 or a STOCK 26 with better response from 2 small turbo's on a 26 as oppoesd to 1 gigantic plutonium powered turbo on a 25 :ninja:

better response from 2 small turbo's on a 26 as oppoesd to 1 gigantic plutonium powered turbo on a 25 :P

From memory the last time i read something regarding singles vs twins, was that with turbos these days there wasnt a world of difference between singles/twins in terms of response?

a lot of feedback on great response from things such as the T04Z's?

BTW, totally agree on the buy it built philosophy! But honestly you couldnt have told me that until i had built it first. NOW i realise :P.

Also when you say build it yourself, do you mean literally building it yourself, or you mean buying every bit yourself and have someone else build it? coz if someone else is building it, just buy one done by someone with a good name and at the same time you can knock years off your mortgage!

Edited by SLY33

Hi mate i didn't quit get 500 but did make 488 on a stock internal neo engine so if it really what you want to do dont be scared off doing it, certainly didnt cost me 25k more like 6 -7 there abouts. But my enging only lasted about 9 - 10 months at that level so i would most definatly recomend setting up a nice forged bottom end with the right choice of mods and you will make it easy as.

all parts will be purchased and assembled myself, machine work will be done by a machine shop i deal with quite alot and have high quality reputation in the industry.

I did think about a Rb30 conversion but i want something I can just bolt in and not worry about shit lining up. Im sick of conversions.

here is the last motor i built which took me 12 months to rebuild which was well respected in the corolla community.

picsalitook145.jpg

then I saw the light and found how well the RB series performed and had quite a quick street car but for me 250rwhp just wasnt fast enough and was just to laggy. I have had a want to build something breathtaking, and have been undecided what car I want to head towards..

I havnt cracked open a 25 before so it will be a learning experience as well, I learnt so much from rebuilding my last 2 corollas and also turning my last 32 from something stock and boring to something that had a fantastic all round package for street and track driving. I have thought about a build as serious as this for so long it comes down to forfilling my passion and proving to my self I can do it.

500HP is a goal, if i can reach it awsome, if a fall short of it Im sure the car will be fast enough, end of the day if I put in my best which ever way I come out at the end I will be a wiser person.

Edited by BANGN
Hi mate i didn't quit get 500 but did make 488 on a stock internal neo engine so if it really what you want to do dont be scared off doing it, certainly didnt cost me 25k more like 6 -7 there abouts.

But my enging only lasted about 9 - 10 months at that level

Well that doesnt come as a surprise at all.

6k does not equal reliable by any means of the word.

Anything on the cheap is always going to be questionable.

Also the 25k, if you read up wasnt just the motor. It was the whole setup from end to end

Also remember the golden rule, the poor man pays twice.

Time and time again we've seen people post about about cheap parts, turbos, manifolds, builds and so on...

Often we see them back 6-12months later with a sad story (like i blew my motor) or the fixup threads (my parts are costing me too much money to keep repairing & pulling off/car off the road for too long/whats causing these problems all the time etc etc etc etc).

Its generally because they have chased the big power, with mediocre parts.

Often you can make a bit of power, with mediocre no problem, its when you really get serious (and 500rwhp isnt a joke setup) that things will fail.

Also if i was making a 370rwkw setup, i'd want it to be the best response, the best midrange, the best of everything. You dont build a 370rwkw setup to settle for second best which is what a tight-ring budget will deliver. Better off spending the coin on a lower power setup and have that stonking & strong, you'll find it might even be faster than the tight-ring version :P

Still, for 6k to make 364kw and last nearly a year with the only thing being a bit low on compression, you pull it out, sell the bottem end, buy another bottem end for like 1.5k and it lasts another year aint too bad IMO.

This forum is filled with psynical buggers, but the sad matter of fact is that they are all completely correct. Im now joining the masses.

My 8k RB30 project is now sitting around the 18k mark. What do i have to show for it? Lots of nice bolt on parts, a bulletproof drivetrain and an engine with stock pistons and head. Most of the labour ive done with friends and all parts have been brought at heavily discounted prices.

If i were to do it again id be buying someone elses project. Buy someone elses car for bugger all and pay more on your mortgage.... thats what i should have done.

Well that doesnt come as a surprise at all.

6k does not equal reliable by any means of the word.

i wasn't surprised either in fact my goal was to see what could be extracted out of a stock bottom end neo and i did that. i also said that i suggest a fully forged bottom end with the right supporting mods if he wants the same sort of power reliably....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...