Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got pretty bored so i got rid of the neo engine cover

post-31699-1225635599_thumb.jpg

looked ok, but still bored. coilpack cover was dirty so took that off and gave it a clean.

post-31699-1225635665_thumb.jpg

still bored. found a can of black spray paint in teh garage so i gave it a respray.

post-31699-1225635741_thumb.jpg

looked much cleaner (excuse the shit phone quality pics) , although i was still bored...

was looking through a box full of junk, found a black metal "skyline" badge.

a bit of paint stripper + polish later the badge came up lookin nice and shiney.

hmmm what to do now? put 2 and 2 together, took the badge and mounted it on the coilpack cover

post-31699-1225635948_thumb.jpgpost-31699-1225635966_thumb.jpg

anyone wanna guess what i got this badge off? :):D

post-31699-1225636002_thumb.jpg post-31699-1225636019_thumb.jpg post-31699-1225636043_thumb.jpg

just thought i'd share

thanks

Edited by R-SPEC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243013-got-bored-yesterday/
Share on other sites

got pretty bored so i got rid of the neo engine cover

post-31699-1225635599_thumb.jpg

looked ok, but still bored. coilpack cover was dirty so took that off and gave it a clean.

post-31699-1225635665_thumb.jpg

still bored. found a can of black spray paint in teh garage so i gave it a respray.

post-31699-1225635741_thumb.jpg

looked much cleaner (excuse the shit phone quality pics) , although i was still bored...

was looking through a box full of junk, found a black metal "skyline" badge.

a bit of paint stripper + polish later the badge came up lookin nice and shiney.

hmmm what to do now? put 2 and 2 together, took the badge and mounted it on the coilpack cover

post-31699-1225635948_thumb.jpgpost-31699-1225635966_thumb.jpg

anyone wanna guess what i got this badge off? :(:D

post-31699-1225636002_thumb.jpg post-31699-1225636019_thumb.jpg post-31699-1225636043_thumb.jpg

just thought i'd share

thanks

I rkn you got the badge off the floor mats, am i right?

Hey R-SPEC!

What polish did you use?

I really don't know what to buy and auto barn sold me mag and alloy wheel polish and is only good on bare metal not paint metal.

i think it was actually some oven cleaner. cant remember exactly :huh:

I rkn you got the badge off the floor mats, am i right?

correct :P

how long did it took you to take the pipe off???

a couple minutes

paint = paint wax/polish same as outside the car

polish alloy - metal polish - autosol/meguirs metal polish/etc

as for making old alloy cover into polished - look at the polishing thread in the fabrication section.

paint = paint wax/polish same as outside the car

polish alloy - metal polish - autosol/meguirs metal polish/etc

as for making old alloy cover into polished - look at the polishing thread in the fabrication section.

Yeah cool, I got Auto Glym car polish, I give that a go on my rocker / cam covers

I got Mothers alloy/mag polish but only works on bare metal stuff as you know.

Thanks man!

Yeah cool, I got Auto Glym car polish, I give that a go on my rocker / cam covers

I got Mothers alloy/mag polish but only works on bare metal stuff as you know.

Thanks man!

if your covers are std r32 GTR black - no polish will make them look nice - the stuff is matt finish and not smooth.

if your covers are std r32 GTR black - no polish will make them look nice - the stuff is matt finish and not smooth.

So can you suggest anything else or would I have to take the covers off, sand them down and repaint them?

So can you suggest anything else or would I have to take the covers off, sand them down and repaint them?

that silicon spray stuff might work for you to make them look fresher ( its like using armorall) but can attract and allow dust to stick to it.

up to you and what you want to achieve with the covers, above is cheapest by all means.

that silicon spray stuff might work for you to make them look fresher ( its like using armorall) but can attract and allow dust to stick to it.

up to you and what you want to achieve with the covers, above is cheapest by all means.

Yeah a friend told me about that silicon spray / armorall stuff too and thats pretty much what Iam after but auto barn sold me Mother Mag / Alloy polish and it can not be used on painted surfices.

Just a more fresher look.

Here is an example of what Iam after.

This pic is from the Zele International website from Japan and I think they spend a lot of time in cleaning their engine bays.

R32 GTR

post-46584-1225958554_thumb.jpg

R33 GTR

post-46584-1225959069_thumb.jpg

As you can see it looks fresh as!

thats been resprayed with a glossier black than the standard paint... if you want it done properly track down some spare covers and timing cover and get them done in a spray booth with proper automotive paint... it bakes on so there will be no flaking and wont chip and scratch as easily, has a much nicer finish and can be polished just like your car.

im spray can guy myself, ive never had any problems, and usually results in a good enough job for the amount of time people see under the bonnet... a)because im cheap, b) because i get bored and like to change colours and c)im cheap

thats been resprayed with a glossier black than the standard paint... if you want it done properly track down some spare covers and timing cover and get them done in a spray booth with proper automotive paint... it bakes on so there will be no flaking and wont chip and scratch as easily, has a much nicer finish and can be polished just like your car.

im spray can guy myself, ive never had any problems, and usually results in a good enough job for the amount of time people see under the bonnet... a)because im cheap, b) because i get bored and like to change colours and c)im cheap

Yeah right, thanks!

I probley see what I can find at any import wrecker place for the cam and timing covers.

Cool and thanks again! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...