Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry to hi jack, recently installed a rb20 actuator and now its overboosting to about 16+psi !. I've been reading and believe i hooked up everything correctly. I'm puzzled now :S. Current mods, 3'' bellmouth and zorst, turbotech boost T set to ~12psi and a nistune remap.

Prior to this problem I had another 1, my boost would drop from 12psi to about 10psi only in high revs (5500-redline), the actuator was suspected so i replaced with rb20 1 and now this :)

Any ideas guys?, only thing i changed during isntalltion was extending the vac line from actuator to boost T to cooler pipe to reach. :S

I take it you have ditched the stock solenoid? Tried adjusting the boost T (without regard to any markings on it i.e. adjust the boost downwards)?
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I havn't adjusted the boost T yet. I just put the rb25 actuator back on and its back to square 1.

My next question is, does this mean the rb20 actuator is faulty? OR could it mean that i need to re adjust my boost T?

I only didn't want to touch the boost T was cos its tuned for the ecu already and i dint wana change the settings being a manual BC its very annoying to adjust to the boost you want. hmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...