Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never sold a car privately before and was wondering if anyone has any general advice on what and what not to do. Just little tips you know, like who let test drive the car or mistakes people have made in the past.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243371-advice-for-private-selling/
Share on other sites

Here is a good list of tips from a thread where a guy had his car stolen while selling.

mate, sorry to hear your car got stolen. but it's common sense to always get a photo copy of or just hold onto the guys licence before you go anywhere. do not get out of the car at any time when the keys are in the ignition. so if you are going to let him drive, hop out taking the keys with you, then hop back in the passenger side and give him the keys. don't get out again to swap back until you have the keys again. always have another friend with you when you meet the guy. and just use some character judgement. I know you weren't expecting it but there were plenty of set-up clues. meet up where he didn't have a car, private number, bumbag and gold chain, no licence shown... this guy is screaming "i'm going to steal your car".

I'd also have a friend or two with you in the car at all times.

as above. Make sure you have some mates with you so that it will make it harder for the "buyer" to try anything.

There are so many dodgey pieces of sh*t out there that are willing to take your hard earned no questions asked

yes at least one person with you....get hold of their license...get them to come to you....dont put up a price that you will sell at not a price higher so that you can bring it down to the selling price...

from my experience...sold about 8 cars.....5 in the last 18 months, the quickest pain free way to sell is put the price you think it should/will sell for and let everyone know that its final price....you might scare off a few lowballers and get less hits, but from experience its easier to sell this way...

or through a reasonable price up.....and then when ppl call and ask your lowest price, oh and they will ask, tell them the price you want to sell for and that its final.

be realistic.....if you want quick sale means you need to drop price....dont do what i do and buy your next car before you sell old one....puts more pressure on the sale and means you will have to sell it cheaper....

its hard to sell car atm moment, with the market and all. i sold my gtr last year and my s14 just after that and it took f**king ages.

def take his/her licence and dont let noone drive it till u see the cash

Set the rules when you see your car.

No time wasters!

Serious buyers only!

You can take them out for a test drive but don't let them drive it until they put a deposit down.

Use the spare key and like others have said, have a friend around to watch your back.

Preferbly let ppl come see the car during the day so they can see everything clealy and not make up excuses.

When ppl say "I'll give you a call tomorrow" don't expect it as some car shoppers think they can just walk in and out without getting back to you.

Try and get their contact number so when they say they will come at a certain time but don't show, you can call them to see if they are still coming or not so you don't sit around wasting your time.

All car shoppers want the car with a RWC and rego. Are you willing to give it? If so set the price higher to cover yourself on the cost, if not, lower the price and let them deal with their own RWC and rego.

All Of The Above +...

Ask one of your mates to follow your car in his car &...

If the intending buyer comes with a mate or two, you only take ONE out at a time (lest there be bravado between mates) &...

Just as you need to sign a contract before a parachute jump, you can get him to sign YOUR CONTRACT as follows...

1) you as driver must supply your car licence #.........

2) you must have another document to prove that the licence address is current (since people move around every couple of years)

3) you must not exceed the speed limit

4) if you commit a traffic violation eg. stop sign, speed camera etc., you are responsible

5) you are allowed to inspect logs and receipts, but nothing must be removed or taken away

6) you allowed to bring a mechanic, but nothing can be dismantled or removed unless I approve and am present

7) you are not allowed to exceed the rev limiter/red line

Signature...................(him)

Witness.....................(you)

Date..........................

Hope this helps,

Tez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...