Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i've got the same issue.. mine are very stubborn water marks, have tried just about everything, made no difference at all!

Windex

Autosol

Metho

Acetone

Toothpaste

Dish washing detergant

Paint stripper

Any other suggestions?

Try an aluminium wheel cleaner that has hydrofluoric acid in it. A small amount only (less than 2%). High concentrations can be very harmful, even lethal. But you are very unlikely to find that in retail products.

Wash it straight off after cleaning your windows, if you leave it on it will etch or damage the glass. For removing bore stains there is nothing better. High concentrations cannot be stored in glass because of the reaction with it.

Try an aluminium wheel cleaner that has hydrofluoric acid in it. A small amount only (less than 2%). High concentrations can be very harmful, even lethal. But you are very unlikely to find that in retail products.

Wash it straight off after cleaning your windows, if you leave it on it will etch or damage the glass. For removing bore stains there is nothing better. High concentrations cannot be stored in glass because of the reaction with it.

  • 4 weeks later...

Gumption worked for me after nothing else would.

So i've got the same issue.. mine are very stubborn water marks, have tried just about everything, made no difference at all!

Windex

Autosol

Metho

Acetone

Toothpaste

Dish washing detergant

Paint stripper

Any other suggestions?

  • 3 weeks later...

So i've got the same issue.. mine are very stubborn water marks, have tried just about everything, made no difference at all!

Windex

Autosol

Metho

Acetone

Toothpaste

Dish washing detergant

Paint stripper

Any other suggestions?

I pretty much tried all those things mentioned above after lots of research. None worked and was the biggest waste of time :rant:

And then I came across this Zaino Z12: http://www.zainobros.com.au/prod15.htm

It just works, its freakin magic. It took me a couple hours to do all my windows, but it was worth it and they look brand new now.

some of these things will melt the rubber around the windows or even etch the glass. and harm paint, or scratch the glass worse .

and extremely flamable after the fact in rags

if somethng like vineger and mircrofiber rag , the try megs Scratch X if that doesnt take it off then

use a commercial glass polish mine had osaka acid rain on it from the docks fixed it first try . just tape off the rubber to keep it black.

Im a spray painter and in the trade we use steelwool and windex. Windows always come up a treat. Do inside and outside then clean it like usual.

Its one of the first things i do to a car when i clean it up after purchase, its amazing how clean windows can make a car look so much neater.

You can also use razor blades to scrape up and down on a window, but just use heaps of windex while your scraping and spray more as you scrape. Steelwool should do the trick though.

Cheers.

Im a spray painter and in the trade we use steelwool and windex. Windows always come up a treat. Do inside and outside then clean it like usual.

Its one of the first things i do to a car when i clean it up after purchase, its amazing how clean windows can make a car look so much neater.

You can also use razor blades to scrape up and down on a window, but just use heaps of windex while your scraping and spray more as you scrape. Steelwool should do the trick though.

Cheers

Im a spray painter and in the trade we use steelwool and windex. Windows always come up a treat. Do inside and outside then clean it like usual.

Its one of the first things i do to a car when i clean it up after purchase, its amazing how clean windows can make a car look so much neater.

You can also use razor blades to scrape up and down on a window, but just use heaps of windex while your scraping and spray more as you scrape. Steelwool should do the trick though.

Im a spray painter and in the trade we use steelwool and windex. Windows always come up a treat. Do inside and outside then clean it like usual.

Its one of the first things i do to a car when i clean it up after purchase, its amazing how clean windows can make a car look so much neater.

You can also use razor blades to scrape up and down on a window, but just use heaps of windex while your scraping and spray more as you scrape. Steelwool should do the trick though.

we do a similar thing where i work .... to remove any old glue from stickers or when doing a brand new car the paint on the windows ..

it seems to work okay but im not too sure on the whole "safety" and stuff of it .. personally wouldnt try it on my car

a point to note though is if the car has tinting DO NOT use windex on the interior glass

warm water with a good microfibre is much better, or something like stoners invisible glass - make sure its safe on tint!!!

we do a similar thing where i work .... to remove any old glue from stickers or when doing a brand new car the paint on the windows ..

it seems to work okay but im not too sure on the whole "safety" and stuff of it .. personally wouldnt try it on my car

a point to note though is if the car has tinting DO NOT use windex on the interior glass

warm water with a good microfibre is much better, or something like stoners invisible glass - make sure its safe on tint!!!

Oh yeah i did forget to say not to use steelwool on the inside if it is tinted... But i have used windex on tint before without a problem? Just out of curiosity, why dont you use it, can it make the tint lift?? Wouldn't mind knowing more.

Cheers

its hard to explain but it basically looks like its peeling and stuff in spots?

i think thats what happened anyway, cos the tint on the familys XC90 was peeling and flaking off in places and when we showed it to tint a car their first reaction was - windex?

ive been told by people who install tinting and final inspection and other good detailers its just unsafe on tint

the people who installed the security tint/film on my house glass also told me not to use windex anymore - microfibre and warm water

the stuff we use to clean windows at my work seems like windex though - and it hasnt caused any damage and ive done more than a 100 cars with it ...

i just wouldnt risk it on any of my cars with so many professionals warning me against it

much cheaper in the long run to just buy a good MF and a good auto glass cleaning solution than to just use windex and find out one day in the future that it buggers up your tint imo

if someone with more knowledge could clear up exactly what it does to tint that would be great cheers.gif

Hi guys,

I'm a professional glass restorer and am constantly removing hard-water stains from car/boat windows, shower screens etc...

For stage 1 glass corrosion (95% of windows will have at least some of this), I use a product called Winsol Crystal Clear 550 (CC550). This usually removes most of the stains with ease. It works by dissolving the mineral build-up and is the quickest and least messy way of completing the job.

For more stubborn water spots (you can do it this way for light stains too), I use cerium oxide powder which is mixed with demineralised water to form a slurry. I then use a felt pad and polishing tool to polish the stains out. My polishing tool is worth over $1500 but for the DIY guys, you can use a felt pad (purchased from your local hardware store) attached to your household drill and remove the stains this way. It's a lot quicker than polishing by hand but if you have to go down that road, use Superfine Steel Wool (0000 gauge). This is abrasive enough to remove the stains but will not scratch the glass. I get all my supplies from these guys as they are the cheapest around http://fcwc.com.au/shop

Once the glass is restored, I apply a product called Sani-Shield which offers a lasting protection for up to 12 months from the hard-water stains forming again. A cheaper option is RainX

To clean the glass/window/shower screen, simply use soapy solution. You don't want to use anything too harsh otherwise you may compromise the protective sealant.

NEW WEBSITE HERE: http://onlinecleaningsolutions.com.au

Winsol Crystal Clear 550 here: http://onlinecleanin...ategory&path=51

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...