Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Honestly , I do not think most people who want to buy this car based on it's track killing performance are heavily concerned with the LC.

If I wanted a car that can do a standing start in some blinding fashion, I would be looking for a car with more of a solid transaxle so as not to worry about a LSD or breaking my axles. (I learned this the hard way with my 350z). This car is made for tearing up corners and basically an awesome road handling performer, not 1/4 mile times. Those # were just for the magazines to throw around in my opinion.

As for the supposed 'frail' tranny, I don't believe in that either, as I could not see Nissan releasing something that would have such a tendency to break in their Halo car. I am sure there are some QA issues that creep up with any build like this and can only hope Nissan will stand by their product. Only time will tell though if there is a weak tranny issue or extreme levels of standing start abuse that could be causing the couple of tranny failures reported in the US to date.

and besides that, if you were a buyer who wanted this car to impress in the traffic light GP, you don't need launch control to smash 99.99% of cars out there. even without the LC it's a rapid thing 0-100. though I must say I would rather have the LC than not have it. as it's a neat party trick to pull once in a while.

I agree, the LC is pretty cool, and I have done it a few times with my friends just to see what it was like.

It definitely makes you realize how fast the car is if you don't leave sufficient room down the road.

It was fun, but in my opinion, not really crazy like my Z. Now that will slam you back in your seat (not to mention swing sideways if ur not careful) and scare the living piss out of you... But I spent a lot of money building that thing up and honestly if I beat on that too often I am sure it will break at some point like every mechanical thing does when abused.

I like to play just like everyone else, and that's why I got the Cobb tuning AP for a little bit of a bump in the low/mid range. But the LC is not as important to me as the handling and that is really what this car is all about.

Just my $0.02 of course ;-)

and besides that, if you were a buyer who wanted this car to impress in the traffic light GP, you don't need launch control to smash 99.99% of cars out there.

With the only cars you're not going to smash, it'll all be settled by reaction time rather than the vehicle's actual acceleration.

Well here is is straight from the Nissan National Training Bulletin:

NT 03/08 29th, October, 2008

TO: NHPC Dealers

ATT: Dealer Principals, General Managers and Sales Managers

RE: GT-R Media comments

Ladies and gentleman,

As you are aware the new Nissan GT-R has created a huge amount of interest among motoring magazines & journalists around the world and is being discussed and tested by many media outlets with fantastic reviews.

Whilst many of the GT-R’s unique features have been highlighted and covered at great lengths there appears to be some persistent referral to “Launch Control”

We wish to clarify that the GTR destined for Australia does not have any form of launch control as a standard feature.

The use & descriptions of this type of procedure being outlined in the testing and reviews is not endorsed by Nissan and places huge forces on the driveline that can result in component failures which are not warrantable.

We would also like to clarify that setting the VDC to “off” mode should only be carried out in accordance with the specific directions as outlined in the Owners Manual.to help free the vehicle if stuck in mud or snow.

Please ensure that any queries from customers or prospects relative to “Launch Control” are addressed promptly and with reference to the above.

Kind Regards,

Slavko Kalenjuk

Slavko Kalenjuk

Manager – Customer Experience and Dealership Training

I am thinking that if you turn VDC off and you are not freeing the vehicle from snow or mud...guess what...no warranty.

What next???

There is nothing in that letter though that says it's going to be actually removed (which is what I have heard from someone at Nissan already).

The do say "The use & descriptions of this type of procedure being outlined in the testing and reviews is not endorsed by Nissan " which to me says it will still be there if you do the right tricks - but also if you do this and break the car the warranty will be void.

What needs to be clarrified as far as I'm concerned is the VDC Off thing. Does switching it off at any time void your warranty for good or only void it should the "break" occur whilst the VDC is off. If it is the latter as someone who has one of these on order I have no issue with that at all. If it is at any time the VDC goes off then the warranty is void for life then I do have issues with that.

A little off-topic.

While watching Top Gear Episode: The Bullet Train, They mentioned that each gearbox is tailored to work on each car and that it simply wouldn't work on another gtr. So my question is wouldn't that be a pain in the backside if you wear out your gearbox? I'm 99.9% sure buying a new one from nissan would cost an arm & leg. Obviously warranty wouldn't cover wear and tear, only malfunction.

Yep I read into that letter that it will be there however it will not be advertised....kind of like the evo X launch control.

Sorry I am little confused, how could:

"We wish to clarify that the GTR destined for Australia does not have any form of launch control as a standard feature"

be construed as anything but the GTR not coming with launch control.

Sorry I am little confused, how could:

"We wish to clarify that the GTR destined for Australia does not have any form of launch control as a standard feature"

be construed as anything but the GTR not coming with launch control.

Officially neither does the EVO X SST nor the DSG VW's - but all of them if you know the right button sequences will activate the Launch Control. This will not be mentioned in ANY of the operating manuals by any of those companies but that doesn't mean that it isnt there - it is just not listed as "a standard feature" and they will refuse to admit its existence.

But as I already mentioned they state that "The use & descriptions of this type of procedure being outlined in the testing and reviews is not endorsed by Nissan" which means it will still be there. And they also state that turning the VDC off will void your warranty so therefore should you do it and break the car its your problem.

Put simply if they say the car doesn't have launch control (or should I say not reference that it does have it) they don't have to then say "it has launch control but you can't use it".

Snowman is correct. The GT-R that is sold in the US comes with the same warning message as indicated in the above letter. You actually have to sit down with the General Manager and sign a series of documents stating you understand the tranny and other mechanical devices in the car make noise and not to be worry about it (i.e.: don't be bringing the car back in for servicing for every noise you hear). You have to go through a full checklist of things with the dealer as he explains everything about the car to you. They have to tell you there is no launch control, but in fact they give you a little 'wink and nod'.

When it comes to the warranty, the way it is understood (and explained to me by my mechanic) is that if you turn the VDC off, AND break some aspect of the driveline, they will argue you are abusing it. IF you turn the VDC off, beat on the car, turn it back on and shortly afterwards something happens to the driveline; they will check the black boxes and if they see the VDC was turned off for any period of time, they will consider voiding the driveline warranty. In a letter to all dealers in the US, Nissan North America issued a statement saying basically they would only void a warranty if they saw clear abuse of the car (i.e. doing something explicitly against what is in the manual).

So the key is black boxes and how long they record the activities on the car and if you are engaging in an activity that is expressly prohibited in the manual. Nowhere in the manual does it say you CAN'T use launch control, because it is not a feature they document. BUT it clearly states that turning VDC off for anything more then getting out of snow/mud will void your driveline warranty if something breaks BECAUSE OF THAT SPECIFIC ACTION. For you everyday driver these conditions should be fine unless you are beating the crap out of the car on the street. (I don't see people setting up the car for a LC at every stoplight, just not practical) For guys who are tracking and want to remove as many electronic nannies as possible, this poses a problem and needs to be thought out before you go turning off the VDC for the track.

Again, this is a perspective from a US owner. I can't for sure say these rules will apply to Australia, but I would assume it would be very similar.

sorry officer, I thought I was stuck in some snow and or mud back there at the traffic light and needed the 4500rpm snow and mud extraction control to get me out....

Officially neither does the EVO X SST nor the DSG VW's - but all of them if you know the right button sequences will activate the Launch Control. This will not be mentioned in ANY of the operating manuals by any of those companies but that doesn't mean that it isnt there - it is just not listed as "a standard feature" and they will refuse to admit its existence.

But as I already mentioned they state that "The use & descriptions of this type of procedure being outlined in the testing and reviews is not endorsed by Nissan" which means it will still be there. And they also state that turning the VDC off will void your warranty so therefore should you do it and break the car its your problem.

Put simply if they say the car doesn't have launch control (or should I say not reference that it does have it) they don't have to then say "it has launch control but you can't use it".

Fair enough, my arguement still stands, IF Nissan had released a manual gearbox, i dont think there would have been many issues. Alright maybe blowing the clutch at most due to improper bedding etc, but Nissan would bed it before anyhow. Sure it maybe a few 10ths slower but it would still have a manual, which would be lighter then the heavy auto, cheaper to replace, and be more interactive and fun to drive.

But hey, thats just my 2c

Thanks for the heads up about the launch control guys, I did not realise the Evo had this feature, that does not really exist. Maybe you are right with the Aussie car, it will have launch control ....but it will be known as "fight club launch control".....first thing about "fight club launch control" is....

Cheers,

Gibbo

Fair enough, my arguement still stands, IF Nissan had released a manual gearbox, i dont think there would have been many issues. Alright maybe blowing the clutch at most due to improper bedding etc, but Nissan would bed it before anyhow. Sure it maybe a few 10ths slower but it would still have a manual, which would be lighter then the heavy auto, cheaper to replace, and be more interactive and fun to drive.

But hey, thats just my 2c

Omg every time i come in here, its blow gearbox this, manual gearbox that.

f**k the manual box get over it i for one am so glad its not a traditional transmission, and f**k the blown gearbox talk obviously if u punish something enough its going to break and gtr's have always broken box's so WTF

On a calmer note perhaps porsche is buying 35's flogging them out and posing it on the net :)

they will refuse to admit its existence.

They can't void your warranty for using something that doesn't exist. :P

"You used launch control on the car when you broke the box so your warranty is void."

"What launch control? "

"Errr......"

I'm still not understanding why VDC off is potentially going to void your warranty, from a technical standpoint. It's not like not having VDC is going to inherently put wear on a car...or other prior Nissan AWD auto would have had issues by now.

They can't void your warranty for using something that doesn't exist. :P

"You used launch control on the car when you broke the box so your warranty is void."

"What launch control? "

"Errr......"

I'm still not understanding why VDC off is potentially going to void your warranty, from a technical standpoint. It's not like not having VDC is going to inherently put wear on a car...or other prior Nissan AWD auto would have had issues by now.

You're answering all your own question there.

They won't void your warranty for using LC. They will void if for turning VCD off. That's all they'll have to say.

And how does turning VCD off potentially void your warranty? Well with the VDC off you'll be able to do things like LC which will put a massive strain through the drive train!! If the VDC was on should something like an LC situation occur it would cut power and consequently the mechanical strain.

And how does turning VCD off potentially void your warranty? Well with the VDC off you'll be able to do things like LC which will put a massive strain through the drive train!!

But if the car "doesn't have LC", then it's never going to be the case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...