Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there has been a bit of info posted about remaps and aftermarket computers. i was initially going to setout and get a pfc and a tune done as i only wanted to stretch the limits of my turbo without going too overboard. i dont track my car or drag it. its just a daily driver and in the last 2 years of ownership i have travelled less than 10,000 kms (yeh everything i do is really close to my home).

Car

1998 R33 gts-t 40th anniversary

mods:

walbro 550hp fuel pump

JJR coil packs

turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, dump, apexi n1 muffler

Greddy profec spec b electronic boost controller (12.5 psi)

Blitz pod filter with cold air snorkel and heat sheild

monza front mount intercooler

Toshi remap

had the remap done today. took about 5 hours all up. after leaving toshi's house i took the car for a spin on my own. and damn. the thing literally lifts off. i never dynod my car before hand i kind of wish i had now. but it couldntve been anymore than 185kw and running average. flat spots. when you compare before and after its like my car was being held back from releasing all this potential. and it wasnt much to get that potential. revs out a lot quicker, power everywhere. lots more torque. no more flat spots in any gear. my boost was holding stable at around 11psi before the remap and now on the profec b it holds stable at about 12.6 psi (8.6 for all you profec b owners and my settings are set 52, gain 20, set gain 27) the car now has its boost limiter gone, speed limiter gone, rev limiter gone just feels free to do whats its wanted to do for the last 2 years.

some guys on these forums have dyno'd after the remap with 10psi making nearly 200kw at the wheels. my car easily makes over 200 now. but feels like it too and the torque feels a lot higher too. toshi doesnt think the turbo will make anymore power at all though as the afm is maxed out.

but bang for buck best performance mod you can get for your line and for a street only car it is more than enough power to make me smile.

Edited by DrewII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245037-just-finished-getting-a-toshi-remap/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good results, no one here doubts the ability of a remap

will certainly make power and perform quiet well

it has no resale value and if you make changes to your car, you have to typically pay the full price again

good results, no one here doubts the ability of a remap

will certainly make power and perform quiet well

it has no resale value and if you make changes to your car, you have to typically pay the full price again

this is very true

however

power fc + tune = 1500-2000

if you want to retune a modification pay another = 3-500 so all up about 2,500 (cheaper of course if tune yourself)

toshi remap = 500

if you want to retune modification pay another 500 so all up 1000. still works out way cheaper than aftermarket computer. even if tune a third mod still cheaper.

and the 16x16 map computers are good enough for street tuning. toshi tuned a R33 few weeks ago with an HKS turbo he said the guy dyno'd it after and the car made 360 horse power. so the power capabilities are also there. he did say if you are looking for numbers of 400hp or more he would recommend the power fc or alike. the road tune really did simulate a proper dyno tune as well. we went on the highway up towards Gosford and gave it a good run with a mix of red lining and speed/gear variations. for a very short period of time this was the only danger of the road tune however there were no cars around at all.

Edited by DrewII

The person doing my remaps only charges about $150 for touch up tunes, he stores all his customers tunes on his laptop so he's not starting from scratch again and therefore charges stuff all; most of the tuners that do remapping I know of are the same. Last time I had a touch up (setting up cam gears) the car was on the dyno for more 5 hours and I was only charged $100

The person doing my remaps only charges about $150 for touch up tunes, he stores all his customers tunes on his laptop so he's not starting from scratch again and therefore charges stuff all; most of the tuners that do remapping I know of are the same. Last time I had a touch up (setting up cam gears) the car was on the dyno for more 5 hours and I was only charged $100

shit thats cheap.

Good result, the re-maps are only good when tuned live IMO.

Sounds exactly the result it should be. The letdown with those kind of remaps is when they are done offsite (posted in the mail etc).

I had a remap years ago, one of the first... was good value.

Although, stock turbo legitimately over 200rwkw? i don't think so :D

Good result, the re-maps are only good when tuned live IMO.

Sounds exactly the result it should be. The letdown with those kind of remaps is when they are done offsite (posted in the mail etc).

I had a remap years ago, one of the first... was good value.

Although, stock turbo legitimately over 200rwkw? i don't think so :P

lol i know what you mean by that. and yeh run the boost run the risk.

and about blowing the engine? it wouldnt be any unsafer for your engine than getting a tune on a dyno. as i said it simulated a proper dyno tune. tested for pinging at extremely high revs. i was surprised my turbo didnt blow during the tune because i thought here we go now going to have to upgrade after todays tune. but honestly i gave this turbo an absolute pounding in the #$$ for a few hours and the turbo ran sweet. easily the biggest pounding iv ever given my turbo. lucky it survived? maybe.

with regards to him going to melbourne you would have to ask him yourself. hes a member on these forums. he has sent numerous remaps all over the country i have spoken to a couple of people on these forums who received one in the mail who were all extremely happy with the results. one guy in perth was ranting about it too.

Neither do I..

Glad you're happy with the results though.

Siddr20 made 196 kw on a dyno at 10psi with manual boost tee, side mount intercooler and Toshi remap. i think an extra 4kw is easily achievable with a big front mount 12.5 psi holding very steady with profec spec b. results like this are also in the RB25 dyno thread. a dyno run will tell though.

Edited by DrewII
Although, stock turbo legitimately over 200rwkw? i don't think so :P

i'm surprised that you'd share this outdated view. its been flogged to death on here.

countless 33's are making over 200rwkw on stock turbo.

12psi - exhaust - tune - cooler. fairly simple formula. its nothing special as far as i can tell.

^^ and not one has ~109mph to back it up now have they? So my outdated view suddenly looks realistic again.

Until enough people run ~109mph passes on the stock turbo unassisted, i'll believe it can push that much power.

To date, i dont think we've had one person do it unassisted. Most are still stuck around the 104-105 mark which is 190-200rwkw give/take

^^ and not one has ~109mph to back it up now have they? So my outdated view suddenly looks realistic again.

Until enough people run ~109mph passes on the stock turbo unassisted, i'll believe it can push that much power.

To date, i dont think we've had one person do it unassisted. Most are still stuck around the 104-105 mark which is 190-200rwkw give/take

i think most people with stock turbos are just that. running high boost without a tune not performing like it should. like i said my car feels like its been opened up again to its full potential like it was being held back for the last two years.

could also be that people with over 200wkw havent dragged their cars and the majority that have dragged are actually making ~190 like you said hence why you probably havent seen many.

but hey we can all say what we want. in the end cold hard proof is the only way to truly tell.

^^ and not one has ~109mph to back it up now have they? So my outdated view suddenly looks realistic again.

Until enough people run ~109mph passes on the stock turbo unassisted, i'll believe it can push that much power.

To date, i dont think we've had one person do it unassisted. Most are still stuck around the 104-105 mark which is 190-200rwkw give/take

so rb20's will just make 200rwkw with rb25 turbos but rb25's wont?!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...