Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I would like to see how many people would be interested in a Group Buy for these balancers.

If i can get 10 solid orders then i will open the Group Buy for them.

Another Group Buy from www.rawbrokerage.com

This time for ROSS TuffBond Harmonic Balancers.

For all those who saw the ATI Harmonic Balancer Group Buy and wanted one for their RB25DET then this Group Buy is for you!

ROSS Metal Jacket Harmonic Balancer:

post-32255-1226892801_thumb.jpg

360 timing marks at 1° intervals

# Adjustable timing disc, for TDC accuracy

# Precision CNC machined 40 Tonne tensile alloy steel hub and vibration dampening ring

# Dampening ring and hub permanently bonded together on TWO axis by our exclusive Tuffbond elastrometric bonding process, ensuring maximum harmful vibrations are absorbed.

# balancer is anodized for durability and appearance

# Absorbs more damaging torsional harmonic vibrations

# Quicker engine acceleration

# Increases engine life

# Lifetime warranty, even for racing use - a world first!

# Never requires maintenance or rebuilding - ever!

# Rated to 1500 HP

# Encapsulated MetaL Jacket® design exceeds AN DRA and SF1 i8.1(USA) requirements

# Fits standard or modified engines

# Affordable price!

For any make and model

Balancers are often overlooked in modified engines, i would have to say upgrading the stock balancer to one of these items is a must!

Prices will be around $470 for RB20 and RB25s. RB26s will be a bit extra.

Once all payments are made i will place the order with ROSS. I will then pick up all the balancers and distribute them at your cost. Or you can pick them up.

If you would like one of these awesome balancers please PM me.

1. NYTSKY RB25DET

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245184-ross-tufffbond-harmonic-balancers/
Share on other sites

Pending on how soon this can get organised and delivered, im interested.

Motor is due to be complete early Feb, if it can be done before then im 100% in.

Awesome thanks guys :D

The sooner i can get all payments the better, as i also would like one on my engine before it goes back in my car.

Ill give it 2 weeks before i start PM'ing people for their money.

Get the word out!! :D

Just wondering how these compare to some of the so called brand names ???e.g HKS, RH9 , HRD , DO-luck etc,,,

Witht the current exchange rate its worth me buying some parts from oz for engine build up.

How much do you think the lit would weigh?? if its under 20kg oz post wouldnt be too bad..you gotta remember with the current rate it works out about at least 35% cheaper for me.

I could be interested. Got another day out at HKS on sat sorting patrs and costing so let you know asap.

I would like to get 8 to 10 payments before i place the order.

Ill PM all people in this thread who are interested in about a week or two.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...