Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey questions, can they send you all the way to regency of they defect you way out in country SA somewhere? would seem a bit stupid having to travel all the way to adelaide just to clear a defect? they would just send you to the closest cop shop in this situation?

Yeah gotta cop ride height on the chin, there's no way I can say it doesn't "look" that low when hes gotten the tape measure out already...

I found the PDF that contains the eyebrow heights...it doesn't have my car on there! 89 GTR, they've got:

GT'R June 91 onwards 375/355 (WTF? 375?)

R32 Turbo Low Volume Import 91 onwards 360/360 (pretty sure this is GTSt)

Only one that matches the year would be June 88 TI/Silhouette GTS 330/325 :banana:

For those playing at home: Eyebrow heights

That PDF is way out of date.

Speak to Vehicle standards they too will tell you it has changed.

For example the R32 GTST used to be 360mm all round.

Now its 345mm front 355mm rear.

When lowering a vehicle body, either front or rear, the limiting factor is the clearance between the rubber bump

stop and the corresponding metal stop. This dimension must not be reduced by more than one third of that

specified by the manufacturer.

Transport SA has a list of acceptable suspension and eyebrow heights (the measurement from the centre of the

wheel vertically upward to the edge of the mudguard) for most passenger vehicles and can be contacted to

verify if the ride height of a vehicle is within acceptable limits.

Info_bulletin_3.pdf

Yeah gotta cop ride height on the chin, there's no way I can say it doesn't "look" that low when hes gotten the tape measure out already...

I found the PDF that contains the eyebrow heights...it doesn't have my car on there! 89 GTR, they've got:

GT'R June 91 onwards 375/355 (WTF? 375?)

R32 Turbo Low Volume Import 91 onwards 360/360 (pretty sure this is GTSt)

Only one that matches the year would be June 88 TI/Silhouette GTS 330/325 :D

For those playing at home: Eyebrow heights

haha that is soooo wrong

i just got cleared from regency not long ago

R32 GTS-t is 345 and 355

GTR is very very very close to this as i remember seeing it in the cops book but clarify with regency, BUT GO TO VEHICLE STANDARDS and check, dont ring............

Guest CleanAndSimple

Found This On Another Website. May Be Helpful As Helped Me, (Even Tho I Have To Go Back SIGH)

Just make sure u have the proper sealed battery (if its in the boot) and all ur splash guards are alright. Sigh Seems Stupid But Thats All They Cud Get From My Car LOL!.

Best Of Luck

In Cabin:

1. check every single bulb on your car is functional, including hazards

2. washer jets work and u have water in the reservoir

3. all of your seats are legal. Seatbelts ALL work. Seat slides forwards and backwards as it is meant to.

4. get subs and amps out. The less non standard stuff they notice, the better. Go in with your car stock as possible.

5. your steering wheel is stock or legal. This applies also to the boss. It cancels the indicators.

6. horn works

7. windows are all working and there’s no crack.

8. all panels etc are fixed and secure.

9. tint is legal. Make sure it’s legal. A lot of guys are failing on this. if it’s not, take it off. If you’re not sure, find out. Be sure.

10. No loose wires anywhere hanging around the place.

Sub Frame & Shell:

1. all boots on everything are in good nick. CV boots, steering boots, strut boots. Mikey didn’t get thru cos of this kind of thing.

2. no significant cracks to subframe or suspension assemblies.

3. all panels are fixed and secure. This includes little things like your wheel arch liners, grill, etc. Make sure all your panel pins are in place and doing their job.

4. your aftermarket exhaust isn’t touching anything it shouldn’t, including your *handbrake cable and assembly*

5. no oil leaks, GB leaks, radiator leaks etc etc etc

Wheels & Suspension:

1. your wheel alignment is reasonable (ie wheels aren’t touching, or nearly touching, any suspension componentry)

2. wheels are legal. If you’re not sure, check. A general rule of thumb is that u can go 2” rim diameter greater and 25mm wider, but check with regency before you go thru. Rules are different for each model, and for different manufacturing years.

3. tyres in good nick, including your spare tyre.

4. brakes are good. Callipers are legal.

5. your ride height is as close to stock as possible.

Engine & Drivetrain:

1. you’re not blowing smoke

2. your aftermarket pod is secured. Afm is plugged in, O2 sensor is plugged in. inputs (sensors etc) are plugged.

3. your egr is plumbed in and functional.

4. no structural rust

5. you have documentation to demonstrate that anything non standard meets the relevant Australian Design Rules (ADRs) and Australian Standards (eg steering wheel)

6. If you have a visible aftermarket ecu be prepared for an emissions test. It isn’t wise to go thru with anything non standard, especially if it’s visible.

Your Attitude.

1. Be cool, friendly, and relaxed.

2. Demonstrate that you respect their rules and knowledge.

3. Remember your manners

4. If they pull you up on anything, politely ask what is needed to make it legal.

5. Bite your tongue. They don't like attitude.

so even if coil overs are set at or above standard required height its an issue?? from that impressive list you have that is my only downfall :D

yup. any form of adjustable suspension is an issue.

I've got a clunk going on in the front right suspension, probably a worn bush but I'll get it looked at. Seems from that list only thing that would get me is ECU and ride height.

Spare tire...what about the wheelbarrow tire? IE: Space saver?

I also heard that tears in the seat fabric are bad, I've got the standard R32 GTR hole in the drivers side seat...

hey questions, can they send you all the way to regency of they defect you way out in country SA somewhere? would seem a bit stupid having to travel all the way to adelaide just to clear a defect? they would just send you to the closest cop shop in this situation?

Well when I was defected in Adelaide and not sent to regency, the car was registered in Port Lincoln.....

I've got a clunk going on in the front right suspension, probably a worn bush but I'll get it looked at. Seems from that list only thing that would get me is ECU and ride height.

Spare tire...what about the wheelbarrow tire? IE: Space saver?

I also heard that tears in the seat fabric are bad, I've got the standard R32 GTR hole in the drivers side seat...

Space saver is fine, as it came stock with the vehicle. Just make sure it is secured.

Will be interested to see how you get on with the turbs. Was recently told that Regency had wised up to the swapping of similar looking turbos and that nothing but stock will get you through. Don't know how they can tell and it could all be a pile of steaming dog shyte so let us know how you get on.

Bigger turbo/changed turbo will be a huge defect due to it changing emissions. I cannot see that a R32 GTR stock turbo will look the same as a R34 N1 turbo. Plus the model numbers will be different.

The only turbo modification you'll get away with is if you've steel wheeled a ceramic wheeled R32 GTR Stock turbo, and possibly high-flowed it, as they'll only check the model number, etc on the turbo.

I had a mate who has a R32 GTS-t who went through Regency with a bigger HKS turbo. He got done for it, and got sent to get a full emissions test.

I've got a clunk going on in the front right suspension, probably a worn bush but I'll get it looked at. Seems from that list only thing that would get me is ECU and ride height.

Spare tire...what about the wheelbarrow tire? IE: Space saver?

I also heard that tears in the seat fabric are bad, I've got the standard R32 GTR hole in the drivers side seat...

They wouldn't care about the appearance of the seat (rips in it - unless they're incredibly deep like someone has gone on a seat stabbing rampage) providing that:

1. The seat is secured, bolted down, and the back rest doesn't have any play in it (I got done for this back in my Familia, my back rest in the drivers seat had the slightest play in it, and I got pinged for it)

2. The seat belt can't have any frays in it on the fabric

3. The seat belt has to retract by itself and not just hang there once you've pulled it out

4. The seat must be standard (but by the sounds of it, yours is)

Well when I was defected in Adelaide and not sent to regency, the car was registered in Port Lincoln.....

Yes, if you're registered address of the car is a certain amount of kilometres away from Regency, they will send you to the nearest police station/checking station. So in your case, you'd get sent to the local cop shop regardless of the defect.

Edit: Check all your bushes!! This is a huge thing they like to check! If any of them are worn, replace them before you go through!!

Edited by CRoNic...
That PDF is way out of date.

Speak to Vehicle standards they too will tell you it has changed.

For example the R32 GTST used to be 360mm all round.

Now its 345mm front 355mm rear.

Here's the current version.. i called up Vehicles Standards and asked the gentleman to send it over.

IB44__August_2008_long_Version.pdf August 2008

I also heard that tears in the seat fabric are bad, I've got the standard R32 GTR hole in the drivers side seat...
They wouldn't care about the appearance of the seat (rips in it - unless they're incredibly deep like someone has gone on a seat stabbing rampage)

i got stung when i had my 31 go thru a few years back. the seat was slightly worn, and they reckoned they could "feel" the hinge in the seat. So best to go thru with no tears/excessive wear if possible

for just one defect are they really going to go over your car with a fine tooth comb??

Absolutely, no doubt about it, happened to me about 5 months ago. They will crawl in, on, over and under the car. They'll use a torch to look into the dark recesses and may even ask you to drop your pants and bend over, they are very thorough.

You can go into Regency for a blown light bulb and come out with a $3,000 list of repairs.

Have been told that they are now checking turbo serial numbers but don't know if this is true or not.

i got stung when i had my 31 go thru a few years back. the seat was slightly worn, and they reckoned they could "feel" the hinge in the seat. So best to go thru with no tears/excessive wear if possible

So if my seat is worn down from getting in and out (as in, the bucket side of it) so its gone a bit flat, and if they press on and it and can feel the hinge (I take it any metal in this area) then thats a defect?

I also heard a week or 2 ago that over the next 6 weeks the cops are having a crack down on all Jap imports. Heard from a cop who pulled this person over. I would show the txt message but lost it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...