Jump to content
SAU Community

Weird Power Loss/gain

Sammy34

By Sammy34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sammy34 Community Regular

Sammy34

Posted
Posted

My r34 gtt auto seems to have moments of unreal power and then moments latter the car feels guttless. car has basics like exhaust. fmic, apexi avcr and apexi pod. The cars been looked over by godzilla motorsports and gave gave the thumbs up for the engine in perfect working order. Just feels like the car has been very tempremental recently.

I've also been notified that it may be caused by the avcr due it being a self learning EBC. Any other thoughts on what it may be would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246879-weird-power-lossgain/
Share on other sites
lanky71 Veteran

lanky71

Posted
Posted

i have to admit that occasionally my car does the same and its a auto r34 gtt.

I think it has to do with the standard ecu as it mainly happens when i "miss" the optimum shift. It thinks i am driving one way then suddenly i change so it doesn't adapt... does that make sense to anyone?

Sammy34 Community Regular

Sammy34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i have to admit that occasionally my car does the same and its a auto r34 gtt.

I think it has to do with the standard ecu as it mainly happens when i "miss" the optimum shift. It thinks i am driving one way then suddenly i change so it doesn't adapt... does that make sense to anyone?

Yeh I find my car performs far better when im not using the sequential gear box. Im interested in just getting a stand alone ecu and getting rid of the sequential all together, if it can be done that is, without too much screwing around. I wonder if I just get a stand alone ECU like a vipec and plug straight in, if it will be fine but just unable to use the sequential. Anyone know???

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
My r34 gtt auto seems to have moments of unreal power and then moments latter the car feels guttless. car has basics like exhaust. fmic, apexi avcr and apexi pod. The cars been looked over by godzilla motorsports and gave gave the thumbs up for the engine in perfect working order. Just feels like the car has been very tempremental recently.

I've also been notified that it may be caused by the avcr due it being a self learning EBC. Any other thoughts on what it may be would be greatly appreciated.

What ecu? there a quite a few R34 GTT's that come in with this issue and it is usually timing related... (with remaps, unichip and emanages etc)

Another common isse is the wastegate all very easy to fix

Sammy34 Community Regular

Sammy34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What ecu? there a quite a few R34 GTT's that come in with this issue and it is usually timing related... (with remaps, unichip and emanages etc)

Another common isse is the wastegate all very easy to fix

standard ECU but ima bout to have a vipec installed. There running the standard ecu for the gearbox and the vipec as a stand alone for the engine etc, so im guesing im still gana have the problem... could always have the quick shift setup installed but just looks like a big hastle to drive for a daily driver.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

I'm betting timing related as well.

What's your opinion Trent? I've seen it in my car due to a knock sensor that was overly sensitive (even at idle) What other triggers have you seen to get similar timing fluctuations?

Sam I'd look at a ROM tune, you're paying a stupid amount of money there to run a yet untested piggy-back setup of the R34 shift logic.

Sammy34 Community Regular

Sammy34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm betting timing related as well.

What's your opinion Trent? I've seen it in my car due to a knock sensor that was overly sensitive (even at idle) What other triggers have you seen to get similar timing fluctuations?

Sam I'd look at a ROM tune, you're paying a stupid amount of money there to run a yet untested piggy-back setup of the R34 shift logic.

Yeh I mean I've considered alot of different options recently computer wise. And had some fairly good conversations with mark down at godzilla performance. As much as I want to take a cheap option out and go with a piggy back or nistune or something (not that its a bad option) Im extremely interested in seeing how this will work out. Plus im just about to invest in a stage 2 shift kit with the manual valve body installed, so i dare say the standard computer wont be piggybacking the shift logic for long.

second of all im sick of my god damn avcr self learning shit. Much prefer the vipec setup with the single missile switch for low and high boost. I may be wrong but the vipec sounds like a far better option for now and down the track than running an emanage that will cost me an upfront 2g anyways.

Apparently the emanage dont come with straight plug ins for the ER34 needs to have a custom fit done with the harness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...