Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I guess with seperate inlets you could use the second stage for different oil but most I've come accross use it as a powersteering oil cooler as Gts30t has done. I might just try to put a cooler in the return line and see how that goes.

I only really did it to see if it could've been done and I had some spare time at work and a spare pump to play with.

Thanks for the positive comments as it's been a fir bit of time put into it of late. I'll try get some pics up of the finished engine bay and interior shortly.

Not much left to do now. Still waiting on a couple of small items to arrive but almost done to a point where we can start and tune it. Some nomex kevlar -16 hose is all I need to finish plumbing the dry sump. Tried everywhere today for some but looks like i'll be ordering it in on monday.

New OMP race seat arrived and have borrowed another Sparco for the passenger side till i can afford the other OMP to match. Also battery isolater mounted up in the center console, battery all boxed and clamped in place on the back passenger floor where the rear seats used to be. Isolator also has the remote pull cable to isolate the battery from outside.

Finished everything in the engine bay now except for the breather line from the oil pump header tank to the breather/catch tank, Line from pump to header tank (-16), some silicone hose to mount the air filters and box them somehow to keep the heat out. There's a couple of grand worth of speedflow fittings in there now, an ARC coolant airation kit; peterson breather tank Magnafuel reg and a heap of other goodies since the last pics.

Also spent today finishing the fuel system. Painted the inside of the boot last night and fitted everything today. I thought the bulk head fittings through the floor were nicer than just a hole and I'm happy enough with the way it turned out. Carter Lift pump and SX performance 1000hp spec pump should be adiquate at this point i think.

Hopefully, with some luck, next week I should have some dyno results to post up. Until then here's some progress pics.

DSC00631.jpg

DSC00640.jpg

DSC00633.jpg

DSC00635.jpg

looking great mate will hopefully see you at a track in the not to distant future. Good luck with the tune and everything else.

You have to love some of the high quality GTR circuit cars in the build at the moment on SAU. Looks to me like GTR's should be dominating a lot of tracks around the country in the not to distant future :down:

dazmo Posted Today, 12:54 AM

looking great mate will hopefully see you at a track in the not to distant future. Good luck with the tune and everything else.

You have to love some of the high quality GTR circuit cars in the build at the moment on SAU. Looks to me like GTR's should be dominating a lot of tracks around the country in the not to distant future

eddieneedsboost Posted Today, 12:34 AM

Awesome build mate. Looking forward to the finished product

Any idea how much the car weighs now?

Yeah definatly want to come down to QR and have a play and meet some of you guys

Not sure what it's gonna weigh yet. It was 1460 as pretty standard road car but I have made a couple of attempts to make it lighter but with the cage and extra stuff that i've put in I'll be happy if it isn't heavier than that now.....for the moment.

Had a drama trying to tighten the fuel fittings onto the underside of the boot floor due to the tank and cradle get in the way. So had a think and came up with cutting a hole and making a plate to go over it out of alli. This way i can tighten all the fittings from inside the boot, then bolt the plate back down to the floor. Hour Later I'd made this. Problem solved. Looks a bit nicer to. Shiney and stuff.

DSC00652.jpg

Nice mod on the fuel lines there the bulk head fittings are definatly the way to go. looks really neat so will definatly match the rest of the car and a good idea to be able to get to everything from in the boot. I know what you mean with the limited space with the tank and subframe had the same drama on the R32 that i built. Lucky the R33 has a litle more room under the boot floor with the tank mounted further forward. will post up an update on my build in the next day or so have been busy sorting thru some issues. When you get down this way shoot me a pm would be keen to meet up for a track day.

dazmo Posted Yesterday, 10:51 PM

When you get down this way shoot me a pm would be keen to meet up for a track day.

Yeah definatly will. Thanks.

SABBAi Posted Yesterday, 10:58 PM

It's looking great. I love the radiator in the support panel. Very neat.

Although i'd love to take the credit for it's design, it's been almost completely plagiarisied from a well known r32 from the Berry/Newman stable. :D

Another little bit of alloy plate found it's way into the dash aswell over the weekend. Just a defi advance 52mm oil temp and the controll unit in there at this point. There's an oil presure guage under the cluster shroud thats covering the factory oil presure gauge to. The 52 mm is a nice fit there and lets you still see the tac and stock temp guage. Obvoiusly there are still 2 holes to fill but will fill them when I have some more cash. probably exhaust and water temp.

Also left a tab out the side to valcro the d-jetro hand controller to.

DSC00625.jpg

Edited by Evocoop

Hey mate if you are going to spend cash on more guages I would highly recomend the ruzic engineering EMPRO2 engine monitor. Paul Ruzic (mountain runner) designed and builds these units they have been designed primarily for track cars as a lower price alternative to the motec aim dash's with all the same functions. These are a great unit very reasonably priced will monitor everything that you will need and keep everything nice and neat so no need for excessive number of guages. I will post up some pics of the one fitted to my car tomorrow. I cant recomend these units highly enough one of the best value for money mods for a track car. I am sure you can find some info on these if you use the search function but if you are interested shoot me a pm and i will send thru his contact details.

Yes Darren for sure i'd be interested. I was looking into the Aim and haltec stuff earlier and it was going to cost mega dollars to make it work as a stand alown unit as i wasn't yet ready to let go of the trusty Power FC. I searched a little deeper but gave up and just bought a defi controller and a couple of important guages to get me started and thought it'd be something to look into later as my main goal of late is to get this thing ready for a tarmac rally here in townsville in 4 weeks time. If you could pm me some info that would be appreicated. Probably can't act on it right now but definatly in the nearish future.

Andrew sorry to make you faint but nah no amp just 2 little speakers in the bottom of the doors. But rest assured that will all come out when we get a little more serious about things.

I think I had the worlds biggest sigh of relief this afternoon. The Skyline started first turn, settled to a nice idle and was sitting at 4bar of oil pressure at idle. No leaks. No dramas. Early days yet but at least everything is looking good at the moment. We called it a day and backed it up on the dyno to give it a run in tune tomorrow morning. Sounded really crisp with a slight cam lump and a throaty exhaust note from my dodgied up cut and shut 87mm with new center muffler.

DSC00655-1.jpg

Just a little update on the progress. We stuck a run in tune in it on the dyno saturday and had no problems. All was good. After a couple of hours of tuning and just basicly running it on the rollers we ramped it a few times with only actuator pressure of 12 pound and made 302. something kwatw.

We took it out for a sunday drive and had a drama of which I have never encounted and am completely out of my depth with.

Crusing along at 95 or so in 5th it has 2 sudden missfires than ran ok for a second then stopped completely. I pulled over and the ECU has no power. I check the fuse in the engine bay and it has blown. I take the one out of the electric windows and it pops that one befor even lighting up the hand controller. After checking everything for anything obvious I steal the ABS fuse and tried it with the hand controller un pluged and pops another one. I've run outta fuses so I call a tow truck.

As I'm completely hopeless with anything electrical does anyone have any ideas? Help Please

im no expert, but i assume it has a short circuit causing it to instantly blow fuses. Will direct a mate to this thread and he might be able to offer some places to check.

Yeah mate, that is correct. You have a short circuit somewhere. Check the wiring under the dash for any bare wires. If it only happens when you turn the IGN on to POWER (just before crank) , then check all the big stuff under the dash. If it's blowing when you turn on to ACC then it could be something like fuel pump, stereo, blah blah anything really.

Disconnect the ECU and turn the IGN on, it will rule out the fuel system. If the fuse stays alive, you know where to start looking. If it still dies, keep looking. Sorry, that's all the advice I can give without seeing the car or having more information.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...