Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rims can be 2 inches bigger than what is stated on the tyre placard.

Wheel track width cannot exceed 26mm from the maximum specified track width of the car in question.

So the MAX track width on, say a R32 GTR is 1506 front and rear.

Edited by CRoNic...
Rims can be 2 inches bigger than what is stated on the tyre placard.

Wheel track width cannot exceed 26mm from the maximum specified track width of the car in question.

So the MAX track width on, say a R32 GTR is 1506 front and rear.

they said the same track width for my 32 gtst when i went through for compliancing.

r32 and r33, both gts-t and GTR, are 1506 front and rear maximum track.

r34 gt-t and gt is 1506 front, 1496 rear, with GTR being same front and 1516 rear

*Thats from the August 08 Edition of "Passenger Car Wheel Track List - 1970 and later vehicles"

r32 and r33, both gts-t and GTR, are 1506 front and rear maximum track.

r34 gt-t and gt is 1506 front, 1496 rear, with GTR being same front and 1516 rear

*Thats from the August 08 Edition of "Passenger Car Wheel Track List - 1970 and later vehicles"

nice work bro

cheers :P

i went through regency today. i failed. they picked me on not having my srs airbag lights on when the ignition is on. now i have to get a certificate that says its working from their recommended workshops. so i went and opened the dash up, to find out that there was no bulb in the airbag slot. so i put a bulb in, but when i turned on the ignition it still doesnt go on. can anyone help?

no. ive always had a stock wheel. i checked the abd fuse, it was ok. and i put a bulb in the abs slot. still hasnt worked. i also connected the cable that sits under the drivers seat. yet it hasnt worked.

midlife

i would do that but the thing is, he says it should light up upon ignition - that your idea would fix that, but when he starts it - problem remains as the light would stay on. correct?

luke

i will give that a go.

thanks all

i also need a certificate that abs is working normally, does anyone here work at nissan? or know how much it would cost to get one of these certificates?

midlife

i would do that but the thing is, he says it should light up upon ignition - that your idea would fix that, but when he starts it - problem remains as the light would stay on. correct?

luke

i will give that a go.

thanks all

i also need a certificate that abs is working normally, does anyone here work at nissan? or know how much it would cost to get one of these certificates?

Engineer can provide the certificate.

Yep, got defected for my wheels 'hanging out of the guards' but still being in track and legal diameter. That's all he done me for, not to low or loud or ANYTHING other than that. I see that as revenue raising at its finest.

I'll be calling Regency tomorrow morning and explaining the lot to them. The officer even complimented me on how stock my car was! But I still got regency

guys, i went to a mates house yesterday to see if we could sort the airbag light problem. this is what we found...

1. putting another blub in didnt work

2. that there is constant live to the contacts of the airbag slot, as the multimeter shows that power is there but it is pulsing (power going up and down)

3. realised that the pulsing shows that the airbag light would have been flashing (if a blub was in) - hence typical flashing of airbag light ppl on here get

4. disconnected the airbag module that sits under the centre console where the handbrake is and the multimeter showed that power to the abs light slot was on constantly (power steady)

my question is ....

1. firstly, how do i get the light working again?

2. my airbag light (if it had a blub in) is flashing. we have tried the pressing of the door button but that doesnt do the trick. would plugging in a nissan consult be able to reset this or would it just detect that there is an error with the airbags.

3. as for getting a certificate the inspector at regency gave me a copy of repairers they recognise. must i have to use one of them or can i use anyone that can provide me with an engineers certificate. if i was to go to a repairer they recommend, would they just do a visual test to see the light works or would they have to plug in software. cause if they do, bridging the contact would be pointless - i would think.

i know its a long post, but it details what is wrong and any more help would be appreciated.

Edited by Nozila
Yep, got defected for my wheels 'hanging out of the guards' but still being in track and legal diameter. That's all he done me for, not to low or loud or ANYTHING other than that. I see that as revenue raising at its finest.

I'll be calling Regency tomorrow morning and explaining the lot to them. The officer even complimented me on how stock my car was! But I still got regency

Not cool.

Usually wheel-related defects, and only wheel related are a cop shop affair. So the cop musn't of liked you to send you to regency!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...