Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

+1

Motorcycle racing is a different kettle of fish, but the same principles apply. I have race tyres with tread (GP rated) which I will throw away after a practice session and a race ... purely because they've "gone off" and lose their grip even with tread left. When I ran slicks (for Supersport) it was the same story. But my road bikes get 6,000kms out of their rubber instead of a few hundred kms. Different environments call for different tyre treads, compounds and profiles.

Scrutineers at a race track will not permit you on track with tyres with low tread/worn rubber ... because the best your tyre will perform is between new to about a few hundred kms old. I've been behind a racer on worn tyres and been covered in bits of rubber, because he had no idea his tyre was disintergrating itself, even in a straight line, at speeds above 160 kph. He crashed later that day.

Slicks are purely bred and manufactured for high grip in race conditions ... does not mean a "bald" street tyre performs the same.

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

+1

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

what about the 'other' rubber, brother?

-D

Front wheel arch liners, do they have to be there?

One of mine is cut in half and the other is removed. Am I likely to be failed on this? I have no idea where I would get replacements from if so. All the wiring is out of the way and proper shielded so really all they are stopping is mud getting on the inside of the guard.

Edited by Rolls
you can get rory thompson to engineer a lock bar if you need to tho

-D

+1

Rory did a few of my 1600s and my supercharged SR20DE 200B. He can get anything thru. :(

I would pay someone $150 to save me having to change all that shit, hell I'd pay someone to change it all back more than $150.

All he is going to do is look at it on a hoist and verify that it is done properly so you might get away with even less than $150.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...