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What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

+1

Motorcycle racing is a different kettle of fish, but the same principles apply. I have race tyres with tread (GP rated) which I will throw away after a practice session and a race ... purely because they've "gone off" and lose their grip even with tread left. When I ran slicks (for Supersport) it was the same story. But my road bikes get 6,000kms out of their rubber instead of a few hundred kms. Different environments call for different tyre treads, compounds and profiles.

Scrutineers at a race track will not permit you on track with tyres with low tread/worn rubber ... because the best your tyre will perform is between new to about a few hundred kms old. I've been behind a racer on worn tyres and been covered in bits of rubber, because he had no idea his tyre was disintergrating itself, even in a straight line, at speeds above 160 kph. He crashed later that day.

Slicks are purely bred and manufactured for high grip in race conditions ... does not mean a "bald" street tyre performs the same.

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

+1

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

what about the 'other' rubber, brother?

-D

Front wheel arch liners, do they have to be there?

One of mine is cut in half and the other is removed. Am I likely to be failed on this? I have no idea where I would get replacements from if so. All the wiring is out of the way and proper shielded so really all they are stopping is mud getting on the inside of the guard.

Edited by Rolls
you can get rory thompson to engineer a lock bar if you need to tho

-D

+1

Rory did a few of my 1600s and my supercharged SR20DE 200B. He can get anything thru. :(

I would pay someone $150 to save me having to change all that shit, hell I'd pay someone to change it all back more than $150.

All he is going to do is look at it on a hoist and verify that it is done properly so you might get away with even less than $150.

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