Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

What are you talking about then if not shagged street tyres that have gone bald? We clearly aren't talking about racing slicks.

A bald street tyre will perform worse in ALL situations compared to when it was new, there is not one circumstance where it would give more grip.

A racing slick is _completely_ different to a slicked road tyre.

+1

Motorcycle racing is a different kettle of fish, but the same principles apply. I have race tyres with tread (GP rated) which I will throw away after a practice session and a race ... purely because they've "gone off" and lose their grip even with tread left. When I ran slicks (for Supersport) it was the same story. But my road bikes get 6,000kms out of their rubber instead of a few hundred kms. Different environments call for different tyre treads, compounds and profiles.

Scrutineers at a race track will not permit you on track with tyres with low tread/worn rubber ... because the best your tyre will perform is between new to about a few hundred kms old. I've been behind a racer on worn tyres and been covered in bits of rubber, because he had no idea his tyre was disintergrating itself, even in a straight line, at speeds above 160 kph. He crashed later that day.

Slicks are purely bred and manufactured for high grip in race conditions ... does not mean a "bald" street tyre performs the same.

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

+1

Race motorbikes, then you'll learn how vital tyres are and the differences between brands, treads, compounds, profiles, tyre pressures etc. I take the rubber on my cars as serious as the rubber on my bikes.

:)

what about the 'other' rubber, brother?

-D

Front wheel arch liners, do they have to be there?

One of mine is cut in half and the other is removed. Am I likely to be failed on this? I have no idea where I would get replacements from if so. All the wiring is out of the way and proper shielded so really all they are stopping is mud getting on the inside of the guard.

Edited by Rolls
you can get rory thompson to engineer a lock bar if you need to tho

-D

+1

Rory did a few of my 1600s and my supercharged SR20DE 200B. He can get anything thru. :(

I would pay someone $150 to save me having to change all that shit, hell I'd pay someone to change it all back more than $150.

All he is going to do is look at it on a hoist and verify that it is done properly so you might get away with even less than $150.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...