Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry for double post wouldnt let me edit :l

also with the Nistune will regency defect u for this?

Highly Highly unlikely. For them to be able to tell theyd not only have to remove kick panel and check ecu, they'd have to disassemble the ECU

Very unlikely they would do this

-D

Has anyone been defected for the privacy glass on the stageas? i kno they come like that but just saying for a cops point of veiw wont they just see it as extremly dark tint and send u to regency for it?

when an officer sent me to Regency for my exhaust, he added the factory rear privacy glass to the list, despite me showing him the sticker on the glass saying it was UV privacy glass. The inspector at Regency laughed at the officer and ticked it off as fine - so I wouldn't stress too much. I suspect whilst a cop might add to an existing defect, they're not going to go out of their way to single you out just for the glass. (Not to say they won't use it as an indicator to look around the car for as many things as they can to add to the list)

super upset right now, i got some non hid headlamps (cheers luke) but got to pop em in and the plugs dont line up and there different arrggg...i have the auto leveling but regency said the hid's need to be auto cleaning is this true? and are they? i dont think they are cos theres no connections for squirters....

if i was to keep the original light (my hids) and changed the globs round for like a duller bulb or something is there a way i can pass without rewiring my whole headlight set up?

just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

f598h4.jpg

Edited by Volk34
just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

f598h4.jpg

Doesn't work like that mate

can someone enlighten me as to whether Regency allow aftermarket swaybars?

i dont think regency allow for much aftermarket items.....specially if they are adjustables mate....my bet is better be safe then sorry :thumbsup:

just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

As above, this really won't work - other bulbs won't fit in the housing, and the only plug you'll have left is from the HID ballast (which you're planning to disconnect).

Seriously - there are better ways. See if you can't pick up some non-xenon or converted compliance lights for passing inspection.

Alternatively, I think it took all of maybe an hour or two to make it so I can temporarily convert my headlights over to regular non-HID bulbs specifically for the purposes of passing Regency. This was done using a cheap ($20) foglight wiring kit (it included a relay, fuse mount and long wiring) and some cut-back bulbs in the standard mounting.

To go into more details - the relay/fuse were mounted into the standard under-bonnet fuse box, and right trigger from the standard headlight switch was wired into the relay for the trigger. Wiring from this was then run in two sets to the headlights themselves. Using extensive cable-ties and black wire-loom stuff to keep it all factory looking - you wouldn't really even know it's been done, and I like that.

For the headlight housings themselves, I used a dremel to put in make tiny hole barely big enough to run the wiring in to to the bulbs, and then spade terminals to plug into the bulbs. The bulbs themselves were (I *think* - it's been a while) H7's that had their bases slightly cut back to fit into the standard D2R mounting points.

The beauty of this setup is, all it takes is taking the HID fuse out of the fuse box, putting it into the new fuse spot, then swapping the bulbs over to the cut-down H7's if I ever need to pass through Regency again (maybe 5 minutes work).

I will note, after having driven the car with these bulbs (just for a test run the night before inspection), whilst the bulb sits in the reflector housing at the right place, the lighting is terrible - I honestly feel sorry for anyone who's stuck with compliance xenon ex-HID headlights after getting used to the 'real thing'.

Good luck with it.

can someone enlighten me as to whether Regency allow aftermarket swaybars?

They should be fine if there not rose jointed, you can have aftermarket springs so sway bars should be fine. Paint them black to make them look standard.

They should be fine if there not rose jointed, you can have aftermarket springs so sway bars should be fine. Paint them black to make them look standard.
i dont think regency allow for much aftermarket items.....specially if they are adjustables mate....my bet is better be safe then sorry :)

+1

Best be safe than sorry. I'd rather hear it "will" pass, than it "should" pass. :thumbsup:

bunch of wussies :thumbsup:

as long as theyre not rose jointed and are single piece (no welding, whiteline, selbys) they will pass.

mine are welded on the ends (kts) and the inspector had a talk to me about it and said that they should be removed because he doesnt have an engineers cert saying the welds were up to standard etc... and still passed me.

last time i went through they were on there and had no problems at all.

As above, this really won't work - other bulbs won't fit in the housing, and the only plug you'll have left is from the HID ballast (which you're planning to disconnect).

Seriously - there are better ways. See if you can't pick up some non-xenon or converted compliance lights for passing inspection.

Alternatively, I think it took all of maybe an hour or two to make it so I can temporarily convert my headlights over to regular non-HID bulbs specifically for the purposes of passing Regency. This was done using a cheap ($20) foglight wiring kit (it included a relay, fuse mount and long wiring) and some cut-back bulbs in the standard mounting.

To go into more details - the relay/fuse were mounted into the standard under-bonnet fuse box, and right trigger from the standard headlight switch was wired into the relay for the trigger. Wiring from this was then run in two sets to the headlights themselves. Using extensive cable-ties and black wire-loom stuff to keep it all factory looking - you wouldn't really even know it's been done, and I like that.

For the headlight housings themselves, I used a dremel to put in make tiny hole barely big enough to run the wiring in to to the bulbs, and then spade terminals to plug into the bulbs. The bulbs themselves were (I *think* - it's been a while) H7's that had their bases slightly cut back to fit into the standard D2R mounting points.

The beauty of this setup is, all it takes is taking the HID fuse out of the fuse box, putting it into the new fuse spot, then swapping the bulbs over to the cut-down H7's if I ever need to pass through Regency again (maybe 5 minutes work).

I will note, after having driven the car with these bulbs (just for a test run the night before inspection), whilst the bulb sits in the reflector housing at the right place, the lighting is terrible - I honestly feel sorry for anyone who's stuck with compliance xenon ex-HID headlights after getting used to the 'real thing'.

Good luck with it.

Thanks matey sounds good, but oh dear on my part (insert sad face here)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Bro,

Yesterday, my Gtt was defected. But what a joke, they defected my exhaust, not loud, because it is not standard!!!! and pod filter, thats it............. they wrote on the paper, "emmission systems to be returned to standard.

Ting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...