Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rather than start a whole new thread figured i'd ask this here...

Has anyone ever been picked on for having retreads when going through Regency?....Im going tomorrow and I just noticed on my Tire Placard in the fine print that my GTR requires a 'V' Rated tire 240km/h....my intention was to borrow a set of 33 stockies with retreads...has anyone ever been shafted for this?

you will be fine with those mate. As long as the tire has tread and the wheel matches the size stated in your placard you will be fine.

goodluck

Just a quick update, passed inspection today, think i scored the best Inspector there...only down side was I broke the connector off my PFC Hand Controller, I had left it in the car as it wasnt connected and me and the Inpsector exchanged views on the matter...I got a little frustrated and pulled a bit harder than I should have and it broke...exhaust was super quiet, went to 92Db then settled at 86Db...full jap system with metal cat too...wtf? Does have 2 big mufflers...Anyway, im sure it can be fixed, stoked to have passed!

Anyone know anyone that fixes PFC Hand Controllers???...

Any electronics repair business should be able to solder you up a new connector, unless you snapped the actual physical plug itself, might be pretty hard to find a replacement, though any decent electronic technician could wire you up a different plug,

  • 1 month later...

Is the panel firmly attached or does it flap around? If its firmly attached you might be ok, just depends on inspector.

I had my inner guards hacked to pieces, rear bumper loose (they didn't touch it) and front quarter panel had a crack where it mounts and was cable tied on (also didn't touch it), didn't get picked up however none were obvious or loose panels, yours has a hole so it might get picked on.

gday all had my pride and joy defected a few months ago for being 10mm too low and a broken fog light near the underpass of ingle farm shopping centre....was wondering how with the fact of stock springs? as i wasnt driving the car it was a spastic ex that has no clue i couldnt dispute it. and on the subject of fog lights why defect it if you cant use them for city driving? fairly furious and whether i could escape with taking it too elizabeth cop shop?

Edited by gilly_ECR33

Need help asap. Did a final check over the 33 today getting ready for regency in the morning an now as soon as i indicator the hazzards go on.

I have replaced the flasher relay

the fusses

the globes with corect wattige

Have ripped dash apart looking for something earthing i am stuck and have no clue what it could be

345 up front 355 rear got re defected for height today at regency gay not happy so am now after front and rear struts

What height is it now?

I'm a bit worried about mine now too - since I put the 18's on it seems to be sitting around 335 - used to be 345-350-ish :( .. guess I can always put the 17's back on to get through..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...