Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just spoke to my engine builder about another matter and mentioned your situation. Whether or not detonation/lean mixtures caused the problem, for your engine builder to claim that they did there needs to be clear and irrefutable evidence of same.

If there isn't any evidence of this then it's a cop-out and they're full of shit. If there is evidence of it then you haven't got a leg to stand on.

Just spoke to my engine builder about another matter and mentioned your situation. Whether or not detonation/lean mixtures caused the problem, for your engine builder to claim that they did there needs to be clear and irrefutable evidence of same.

If there isn't any evidence of this then it's a cop-out and they're full of shit. If there is evidence of it then you haven't got a leg to stand on.

Isn't he your dentist?

Harris do a lot of RB30's and they're close to you Joe. Worth a call. Although keep in mind they dont like to stay on the phone for long cause they're always busy

Thanks Steve, if the engineer returns with results in my favour then i'll give them a call.

Just spoke to my engine builder about another matter and mentioned your situation. Whether or not detonation/lean mixtures caused the problem, for your engine builder to claim that they did there needs to be clear and irrefutable evidence of same.

If there isn't any evidence of this then it's a cop-out and they're full of shit. If there is evidence of it then you haven't got a leg to stand on.

As far as he has told me, he doesnt have an actual report. He says that he's had 2 guys look at it, an engineer (i think) and someone from the NRMA and both said it was caused by detonation whereas the engineer that will provide me with a report said that detonation would not cause the main bearings to go, it would cause the big end bearings to go if anything.

whereas the engineer that will provide me with a report said that detonation would not cause the main bearings to go, it would cause the big end bearings to go if anything.

Yep. That's what I would've thought. But here's the thing, dude. It doesn't matter what's caused it, if it has detonated its ring out then there's sweet f**k all you can do.

Yep. That's what I would've thought. But here's the thing, dude. It doesn't matter what's caused it, if it has detonated its ring out then there's sweet f**k all you can do.

he said the pistons and rings are fine as well as the bores so i highly doubt it was detonation. the only part in the entire motor that failed were 2 of the main bearings.

Engineer will have a report ready for me by wednesday i hope. i'll ring him today and see if he'll go earlier. no point in speculating if we dont know 100% what happened.

Edited by SECURITY
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm sure Joe will give an update sooner or later, but I understand the engineer confirmed there was nothing wrong with the build, the issue was un-related.

It would be good to see the details posted since the reason I heard was unusual and an interesting warning about how small things can build up to a dead motor

Engineer report in:

results are:

bearing failure caused by overfueling/incomplete combustion + a restriction in the oil pickup which caused low oil flow at high RPM. the over fueling + the oil pickup restriction caused the motor to fail.

I'll post up the engineer report once ive edited out my details etc.

who tuned the new engine? As from what im reading there it has had problems since it was installed as the 8000klms travelled on an overfueled engine. This is critical on initial run-in as an excessively fueled engine will not allow rings to bed-in and the overfueled combustion chamber to release fuel mixture into sump area on compression stroke.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...