Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my S2, which came with a pathetic 5 page cut-down "owners manual" (or the car-yards attempt at one) that refers only to the S1. So ... does anyone know where I can download a complete S2 Owners Manual, or have one I can purchase? I've done a google search and scoured Ebay to no avail. I've been reading the forums on here and discovered I've purchased a RSFOUR V with all the tricks, except the woodgrain dash, but have no idea what half the crap does.

If someone could tell me what the following buttons do that will get me started :blink:

There's a button just to the left of the stearing column with 4 wheels and an S in a circle in the middle, this lights up an identical light on the dash when pressed. Theory's thrown at me by my dopey mates is Traction Control, Center Diff Lock, Sports Mode, or Stability Control toggle. What is it really?

Also, on the centre console just under the arm rest is 2 switches for the seat warmers, but to the right of them is another toggle that says "Snow" above it and "A/T" on it ... wtf does this do??

The other buttons that had me confused only needed to be pressed for it to become obvious what they did, such as the side mirrors folding in etc but these 2 have me baffled as I cannot notice any immediate effect after turning them on/off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247018-whats-this-do/
Share on other sites

Welcome Cozza

The 4 wheels switch is "Syncro Mode" which locks the split to 50% front 50% rear

The Snow switch is for driving in the snow funnily enough stops the wheels spinning and shit

If you want a manual you'll have to sign up here http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=...1/products.html and wait until 2015 like the rest of us...

Regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247018-whats-this-do/#findComment-4292494
Share on other sites

Snow button will prevent it going into 1st gear, ie take off in 2nd and I think change gears lower in the rev range.

Also, not a good idea to use the synchro button on hard surfaces at speed, only on grass, snow etc when you need it. Puts stress on the transfer case, especially when cornering on ashphalt. Ive only ever used it when on wet grass or at the boat ramp etc.

PS welcome by the way.

You won't need an owners manual, theres more info to be found on this forum, just about everything has been covered a few times over.

Ive got the full Japanese workshop manual, can be handy if you can work things out from the pictures, and also if you want to know a little more about your car, pm me your vin and ill send you what options your car came with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247018-whats-this-do/#findComment-4292532
Share on other sites

The synchro button locks in 50/50 front rear drive - good for pulling your boat (one's boat as it were, I don't actually have a boat) out of the water or getting off the beach but when you get up speed (I'm not sure exactly where) the Attessa computer takes over and it goes back to 95% rear drive until it senses you're losing traction when it tranfers more drive to the front.

The snow button locks out first gear so its handy on the dyno where you can put the snow button on and select second gear so that the box won't kick down during a power run.

The power button (on the same rocker as the snow button at least on my car) makes the gearbox hang on longer before changing up but you can get the same effect by keeping your foot flat to the floor.

You can get an owners handbook for around $50 from the same place as you sign up for the manual. It tells you what controls do but it doesn't have any technical specifications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247018-whats-this-do/#findComment-4292983
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...