Jump to content
SAU Community

My R32 Sounds Like Wrx

Rocky88

By Rocky88,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
Posted

Last week during a cruise on a freeway my R32 (RB20DET) all the suddenly started to sound like WRX - it got really deep sound, kinda like truck. and it became noticeably slower and its shaking like hell (there's no rattling noise or anything like that though)... First thought was faulty spark-plug, but then all the suddenly it fixed itself... It was alright for a while but then it started doing it again... It's alright at the moment but it's still happening at times, usually after driving for a while...

Should replacing spark plugs fix the issue or is it something I should be concerned about?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247304-my-r32-sounds-like-wrx/
Share on other sites
Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmmm... too early to celebrate. Today my car started making the same sound but only briefly. While servicing the engine I spotted 3 studs have snapped off the manifold. I'm planning to get studs fixed and replace gasket on the manifold as soon as I can afford... I just want to know if that might be reason for the weird wrx sound and temporary loss of power.

Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted
an exhaust gasket that is gone will make that noise but it will almost certainly be all the time,, not only every now and then.

yea... that's pretty much what I thought. And gasket is still in fair condition and manifold is not causing any problems at the moment eithers.

Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So it got much worse and it's pretty much doing it all the time now... It's really annoying so I want to fix it asap. I came to decission that's it's probably stuffed coil packs. Just cant afford to spend $600 on splitfires so I wanted to know what are more affordable options out there. 2nd hand stock coil packs?

Luciano Veteran

Luciano

Posted
Posted

Like blind elk said, try swapping your ignitor with a friends, Rok.

Still, you can't rule out the coils like you say. I found that the standard coils are actually pretty tough - mine were scorched, melted, and hammered - they weren't performing their best, so I taped them em up for a temporary fix, and they performed a lot better - got rid of some slight misfiring through rev range.

I bought a brand new set of superspark coils, installed, and found that they really don't perform a hell of a lot better (as they claim), than the standard ones taped up...

I reckon rule out the ignitor before you spend $ on coils

shepo Experienced

shepo

Posted
Posted

i garantee it will be the coil packs. it will be hard to find which one it is, but it will start getting worse and worse. what you can do is pull the cover off, let the car run until it starts to miss fire. then disconnect the coil packs one by one. with each one you disconnect the idle should get even rougher, until you disconnect one and the idle doesnt change. then you have found your faulty coil pack.

same thing has hapend to me with both my skylines. with my old gts-t i just replaced them one at a time as they went. but with my gtr i lashed out and got a set of splitfires.

i can highly recomend the splitfires. ive never had a problem with them.

hope this has been a help. :thumbsup:

Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Like blind elk said, try swapping your ignitor with a friends, Rok.

Still, you can't rule out the coils like you say. I found that the standard coils are actually pretty tough - mine were scorched, melted, and hammered - they weren't performing their best, so I taped them em up for a temporary fix, and they performed a lot better - got rid of some slight misfiring through rev range.

I bought a brand new set of superspark coils, installed, and found that they really don't perform a hell of a lot better (as they claim), than the standard ones taped up...

I reckon rule out the ignitor before you spend $ on coils

Yea... aftermarket coil packs making more hp than stock ones is pretty much just a myth from what I heard from many people. And as long as maintained properly stock ones should also last longer than aftermarket. The only exception is probably splitfires but even they are probably not much better than stock ones.

i garantee it will be the coil packs. it will be hard to find which one it is, but it will start getting worse and worse. what you can do is pull the cover off, let the car run until it starts to miss fire. then disconnect the coil packs one by one. with each one you disconnect the idle should get even rougher, until you disconnect one and the idle doesnt change. then you have found your faulty coil pack.

same thing has hapend to me with both my skylines. with my old gts-t i just replaced them one at a time as they went. but with my gtr i lashed out and got a set of splitfires.

i can highly recomend the splitfires. ive never had a problem with them.

hope this has been a help. :P

Thanks man. I'll try disconnecting them when I get time to see which one is stuffed and I'll replace it with stock one for now. :)

jnr_chin Collaborator

jnr_chin

Posted
Posted

that happens sometimes because of slack connection. the result would be the firing of only 5 coils firing. the car will drive but with less power and the subi sound. the engine will become unbalanced hence unstable causing vibration

1. slack connection on the air flow meter. pins not making contact etc.

2. slack connection on one of the injector plug on

3. slack connection on the right hand side of the igniter (the end going to the plugs)

because current is flowing from pin to pin sometimes if not connected properly when the car shakes too much, it will happen and act back normal because of the arcing of the current flowing.

the best bet is when this is happening fly the bonnet and check connections one by one to see which one stops it. if you are able to use a 12 volt tester you can also check the connection to the coils itself. dont rule out any parts but i doubt those are any trouble. the muffler has nothing much to do with how the engine reacts in this situation. without the muffler the engine can feel and sound very smooth.

Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

today i finaly had time to take off the engine cover and check the coil packs... after running the car and disconnecting one after another i found a faulty one, so its definitely a coil pack thats gone.

the only problem is that the replacement one I bought has different connector that ones found in my car. coil packs in my r32 are mcp-300 with three horizontal pins, while the one i got is mcp-200 with three vertical pins... which skyline uses ones with vertical pins?

arbess Experienced

arbess

Posted
Posted

have you considered a compression test on your engine?

Electrical issues, such as coil packs, may occur else where around the engine along the wiring. If you have read any of my post you will see my frustration in trying to find my WRX issue.

Good luck

  • 2 weeks later...
Rocky88 Proficient

Rocky88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so the problem just got even weirder... the last possible suspect was fuel injector... so i had my mechanic to take it out and clean it. after that i started car and it was running perfectly. but then after 5 minutes it started missing badly again... so i unplugged the injector to check contacts, plugged it back in and car ran smoothly again so i took it for a spin again and after driving for couple of minutes it started missing again. usually starts in 2nd gear after 2,500 revs, but not while idling, no matter how high revs... so i unplugged it, plugged it back in and again car ran perfect for short time. After plugging injector usually car runs smoothly in 1st gear, in 2nd gear it starts stuttering a bit at 2,500 revs, and then same in 3rd and 4th and then after minute or two it starts misfiring badly again.

i just dont get it cause injector connector is firmly secured with the staple-looking thing...there doesnt seem anything wrong with connection because i tested it with multimeter...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...