Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, as I said I don't push my car hard on road, I drive carefully and slowly in wet. Maybe it got something to do with the suspension, the Buddyclub N+ has a quite stiff spring rates, front 10, rear 8.

ouch at that pickup truck pic.

I know where your coming from and its not really your driving style like others have pointed out. Its your setup, thats all. Stiff suss wont see you going sideways unpredictably at really low k's but it is one of many factors, your camber, your tyre, and the amount of surface contact. get em all sorted out and you should have no drama other than your right foot. I addressed these issues and the problems gone away and I'm still running my stiff tiens.

next time it happens, just stick your hand out the window and yell out

"DDDDDDDOOOOOOOOORRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIFFFFFFFFTTTTTTTTOOOOOOOO!!!!!!"

KOOOMANNNGIII ATTACKKKKK!

srsly tho, i run the same tryes (dunlop lemans lm702 245/40/18) and with 5/7 coils, struts, sways, castor, camber, hicas lock and 265rwkw i'm fine...

it's ALL in the driving, not the car

ok, as I said I don't push my car hard on road, I drive carefully and slowly in wet.

Ahem

the car starts to "Drift"....sometimes in a hurry right turn

Thanks for coming.

I've driven a modified 5.0L Commodore SS auto with Goodyear F1s on the front and retreads on the back in the wet, and managed to not spin out. I can guarantee that car would have less wet weather rear grip, and a shedload more torque that is a lot less predictable in its delivery.

srsly tho, i run the same tryes (dunlop lemans lm702 245/40/18) and with 5/7 coils, struts, sways, castor, camber, hicas lock and 265rwkw i'm fine...

it's ALL in the driving, not the car

I don't have the castor, camber kits, I will get the camber kits see if make a different, if it still does the same thing, then i must be a bad driver

  • 2 weeks later...

Coilovers are a contributor to this, i also had to much camber as i was running 18x10's with a big ofset, granted it was very fun coz all i had to do was turn the wheel in the wet and it would slide out nicely no matter what tyres i had on there... also having a light tuned RB26 mad the slides last :P its just a fact of life with these sorts of cars especially with coilovers +to much camber. its no fun to just putt around doing 20 in the rain so let it slide and just enjoy the ride

Its in the right foot......plenty of people drive around with this sort of HP at the rears only ( My VU ( ss ute ) is 700hp and over 1000nm rear wheel drive and not much weight in the back without the spare etc.... was a brilliant car to learn propper throttle control especially in the wet biggest issues where making a turn out of a side street uphill in the wet the rears would just spin and spin and it was almost impossible to get traction but after some proper practice and some forced self control....... it drives fine.

Tuning and changing your suspension may well help but learn to control what you have got appropriately first....

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...