Jump to content
SAU Community

Obx Turbo's And Parts

leeroy_25

By leeroy_25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought they were US based.. Well was led to believe that.. Okay.. so steer well clear.. In that case what do you think of Master Power turbo's? I have heard good things in the US but not too much outside of there?

Cheers

Lee

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

a mate has a master power on his xe falcon, his (i think they all are) is a bush bearing, seems to go well tho, he only has it on 10psi tho as it is a standard 250 and is already making 180rwkw.

4drfts Rookie

4drfts

Posted
Posted

OBX sppears to be the exactly the same as all the no-name crap from china, but they have just done a better job of branding it. IMO its crap and youd be better off just buying the crap no-name stuff for cheaper as its exactly the same. some parts are alright such as exhausts, fuel rails and camgears, even though the degree markings ore often a little out but you dial them on a dyno anyway. stay away from FPR's as they break, BOV's leak etc and anything that has precise moving parts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

their seats are fine and adr approved unlike most jap brands.

so what's with the anti-china talk? in the 70s you would get exactly the same feedback about japanese cars.....

you can pay top $$$ or you can take a chance with cheap. its like that with anything you buy in the world why should car parts be any different?

btw where did the computer you typed on come from?

Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
Posted

touche :D

their seats are fine and adr approved unlike most jap brands.

so what's with the anti-china talk? in the 70s you would get exactly the same feedback about japanese cars.....

you can pay top $$$ or you can take a chance with cheap. its like that with anything you buy in the world why should car parts be any different?

btw where did the computer you typed on come from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...