Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last time I checked, Nitrous Oxide was a power adder and water wasn't. By that logic, a turbocharger is an 'extra' system. Clearly that's not what I'm talking about.

Drawing a long bow there dude. nitrous is as much an extra system as water meth, and achieves precisely the same result. Cooler combustion temps.

Dunno bout your car but mine came with a turbo charger. An "extra" system it most definitely is not.

(the fact that it no longer even closely resembles the factory "system" is totally irelevant) :P

Darren, you may well be right but it's adding another system into the mix and the more complex you make things, the more likely something is to go wrong. The way I see it, the E85 does a couple of things much better than regular pump unleaded and that's good enough for me and most people. Like anything though, it can be improved and that's where people might like to use a WMI kit as well. I've got enough confusion going on in my setup to bother though. :(

Ha,ha, i know what you saying!, but once you've used it you will never not be

able to have it again! , then again i would never use a kit that uses a pump anyway

i'm shit scared that they will stop working(because they all do, its a matter of time)

the only thing to go wrong on a system using boost pressure is that a solenoid didn't switch on,

but i have a light hooked up to it, to tell when it switches on

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
Drawing a long bow there dude. nitrous is as much an extra system as water meth, and achieves precisely the same result. Cooler combustion temps.

Dunno bout your car but mine came with a turbo charger. An "extra" system it most definitely is not.

It isn't drawing a long bow at all. The primary function of nitrous oxide use in an internal combustion engine is to add extra oxygen and make more horsepower. It doesn't matter how long it's used for or in what fashion. This is its only application. One of the side effects of its use is that intake temperatures are reduced. This is not a primary concern in any application of automotive nitrous oxide. I agree that it is an extra system but only for the purposes of making my point in relation to water injection.

Water is most definitely not a power adder and it does not achieve "precisely the same result" as outlined above. Water cools the intake temps but that is all. It will not make more power in its own right and therefore it is irrelevant to compare it with nitrous oxide.

(the fact that it no longer even closely resembles the factory "system" is totally irelevant) :(

I lol'd! :)

Darren, how is your setup constructed? Boost pressure switch opening a solenoid? How is it jetted etc? Would love to see pics.

Water is most definitely not a power adder and it does not achieve "precisely the same result" as outlined above. Water cools the intake temps but that is all. It will not make more power in its own right and therefore it is irrelevant to compare it with nitrous oxide.
Water also reduces the heating during the compression stroke which is the largest part of the heat increase from ambient prior to ignition.

Not because it is cold, but because it is water..

less heating during compression means higher knock threshold means higher effective octane ratio means more advanced timing means more power.

I'm not sure which is more effective but I'd wager it is not the intake charge temp drop, but the decreased heat during compression. If you put on a 100% efficient intercooler, you still can't get the same result as water injection.

Water also reduces the heating during the compression stroke which is the largest part of the heat increase from ambient prior to ignition.

Not because it is cold, but because it is water..

less heating during compression means higher knock threshold means higher effective octane ratio means more advanced timing means more power.

I'm not sure which is more effective but I'd wager it is not the intake charge temp drop, but the decreased heat during compression. If you put on a 100% efficient intercooler, you still can't get the same result as water injection.

Be that as it may, water isn't now and will never be a power adder in and of itself.

Yeh just the usual switched on by a pressure switch, turns on 2 solenoids, one for air, one for water

and presurisses a tank which goes to a flow control valve then to a air/water atomiser

pre-turbo, never any sign of wear.

was controlable from 650-900hp of water flow, but riceracing has a trick valve now that will control

the same atomiser from 250-900hp, trick little valve and cheap to

cheers

darren

The way water/meth works (explained to me by an auto engineer) is the meth cools the intake temps and the water reduces detonation by squelching any hot spots in the chamber, it can make intake temps cooler by way of the intercooler but the meth does that job much better, just remember that water is like a solid and doesnt compress very well.

I agrre with the "extra system" idea and it is one more thing that can go wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...