Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are called centre lock hubs.

that should help with the searching.

basically you will run drive pegs which look like normal studs, but they are shorter, have tapered noses, and wont neccisarily be the same number or PCD as your current studs, they locate the centre lock wheels onto the hubs, then the big nut torque it down onto the drive flange (same a normal wheel the centre hub/flange is what drives the wheel, the studs just locate it and the nut just holds it down).

it's not impossible, but to make it work you to convert the hubs, and fit the drive pegs, and buy the nuts (not cheap) and buy some suitable centre lock wheels, and a big bar/torque wrech/gun and appropriate socket to do them up. they are obviously only any good on a race car. we ran them on my friends GT3 cup car and yeah they are convenient. since there are so many cup cars in aus your best bet may be to pick up a set of wheels (they run BBS in various sizes) and nuts, and sockets from those guys and try and get hubs to suit.

lol nice one, never thought about that.

Question stems from Kris' post over at GTRblog about hooking up with dirt cheap SuperGT wheels.

lol, you've got no chance of using them on any normal car mate. they are 19X13 inch. I should know I bought some last year...

and most of the ones they sell they are being sold because they are no longer fit for use. they are magnesium wheels, cost about $2800 each new, so I guarantee they wouldn't be flogging them for $100 if they were still usable.

they make nice ornaments for your lounge room though.

LoL no shit Baron :) I didn't expect to be using those wheels it was just reading about them that gave me the idea. I'm well aware of their width and usability. I've worded Kris up to hook me up when he's next over that way, if you're heading to the Nismo Festival you can hook me up too if Kris doesn't go :)

I'd love one for the lounge room!

baron you ar$ehole, bring one back for me.

fark! lol

you know I will love muffin. :P

or you could just fking cum with me next time and carry it yo self. sure they are only 8kg, but try lugging it around for a few hours. feels like 80kg by the end of the day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...