Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Hiflow Service

Just_Rb

By Just_Rb,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted
also highly interested in a bolt on solution to twin rb26 turbos, as well as dyno or pics and specs

GTR turbos are easy we can put in ATR28SS 350HP CHAR for twin setup. Those are very very tuff little turbo made to handel high boost. Should get you 400rwkws with excellent turbo response.

stricnynel0s Collaborator

stricnynel0s

Posted
Posted
GTR turbos are easy we can put in ATR28SS 350HP CHAR for twin setup. Those are very very tuff little turbo made to handel high boost. Should get you 400rwkws with excellent turbo response.

very interested, do you have an US dealers ?

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry we don't. But we can make them brand new and mail it over if you need. Had many US and Eurp customers lately as our dollar is sitting very low.

Edited by hypergear
CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

I am interested in teting the rb25 bolt on hiflow for you when they are ready.

I can supply you with housings and fit the turbo to my car, tune it and publish the results if you are interested, I have been tuning rb's for a few years and am always interested in bolt on option.

cheers :O

AFTDRK Rising Star

AFTDRK

Posted
Posted (edited)

im very interested in this as i am planning on doing it at the same time as a remap,

my car has the usual 'basic' mods (exhaust, intake, fmic, fuel pump, stock boost still)

will somewhere around the 220rwkw+ mark be acheivable with this high flow and a remap in peoples opinions (how much psi would i be looking at runninig out of curiousity to achieve that level)

also what other modifications (if any) would i need to support such power levels.

Edited by AFTDRK
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

220rwkws is very easy. The high flowed turbo should perform between 230~250rwkws. It should be archived around 18psi or less. By calculation it should archive peek out put of 450HP at 1.3Bar.

There are many dependencies, calculation is normally calculated based on 75~80% of flow capacity. and there are many things that we can do to increase the HP with the ATR28 CHAR in a restrictive environment, but it will results more lag.

The most common profile that we use for R33 high flow is ATR28G2 (400HP) and older G3(450HP) profile. The Current G3 (on the 282rwkws CA) requires a big turbine wheel which the stock housing doesn't seems to have enough meat to be machined out.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Thanks for answering questions etc.

However please be aware you are not a paying trader of this forum, of which there are a lot of businesses paying good money to advertise.

Talking about prices and so on from here must cease until such a time as you are a paying trader.

To become/purchase trader options, please see subscriptions under "my controls"

Thanks.

  • 1 month later...
bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

hey guys, ive sent my turbine housing(not the core) to hypergear today..

ive bein talking to Stao there via email..since i live in perth

anyways..im getting my r33 series turbo high-flowed by them,,

i currently have fmic, pod, hks cat-back exhaust, walbro fuel pump, spitfire coilpack, greddy rs bov, apexi neo afc.

anyways, im just gona bolt this high-flow turbo straight onto my car..

its getting fitted with a ATR28G3 450hp core..

all for $800 :)

anyways my question to u guys is...

will i be able to drive/run my car since i dont have a aftermarket ecu, bigger injectors or a z32 afm..

but ive bein told by hypergear i can..

but 2 workshops here in perth say i wouldnt be able to drive or get my car running...

can some confrim this??

bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

well, they said they can fit a 7psi actuator to it..

so i think im gona get that..

do u guys know what and how much boost i could run with the new turbo?

anyone else running a hypergear turbo on 33 with stock ecu and afm???

Douse Collaborator

Douse

Posted
Posted
well, they said they can fit a 7psi actuator to it..

so i think im gona get that..

do u guys know what and how much boost i could run with the new turbo?

anyone else running a hypergear turbo on 33 with stock ecu and afm???

I want to see results on a RB20....

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

If the car's going to be tunned for power I recommend to use 14psi actuator so you can alter boost to 24psi. the 7psi actuator can hold a max of 10psi. So depends on further plans to the car.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted
Any word on using a ball-bearing core instead of the sleeve bearings you've mentioned earlier - and the extra costing around this? (If you're still allowed to talk about costings in public...)

With BB CHRA it will be a Garrett GT2871R or a GT3071/6R CHRA. To do that it will cost $1200AUD+ depends on the CHRA you want to put in it.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted
With BB CHRA it will be a Garrett GT2871R or a GT3071/6R CHRA. To do that it will cost $1200AUD+ depends on the CHRA you want to put in it.

I'm guessing the 2871 would be a more appropriate sizing for 220-250kw and ultimately quicker spooling and response?

  • 2 weeks later...
bradshaw Rookie

bradshaw

Posted
Posted
It all depends on what you do as calling it "high flow".

What we do is:

Re-profile both factory compressor and turbine housings.

Assemble profiled housings onto ATR28 450HP profile core assemble.

So basically its a brand new turbo with your factory housings for direct bolton purpose.

All ATR turbochargers are covered with 12 month warranty for performance usage.

I have been talking to this guy on NS.com.

So far prooven results with good internals.

gives gt2871r & 3071r garretts a fair run for money! Literally speaking!

For anyone who need rb20 stock turbos for rebuild "cheap as" feel free to contact my at [email protected] or 04218167564.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...