Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after a good quality forged 17x9 rim with offset of between +28 and +30. About the only thing i can find is the std R33 GTR rim. I nee 9.5 rears, but it looks like i will have to go with odd front to rear rims so i can get the sizes i want.

Any wheel groupies out there know of a brand?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248664-cant-fiena-17-x-9-30-forged-rim/
Share on other sites

I am after a good quality forged 17x9 rim with offset of between +28 and +30. About the only thing i can find is the std R33 GTR rim. I nee 9.5 rears, but it looks like i will have to go with odd front to rear rims so i can get the sizes i want.

Any wheel groupies out there know of a brand?

what are you smoking roy?

you want a 9.5 rear, but you're asking for a 17x9 +28 to +30?

what is the question???

you're a weird unit.

I agree with ronin. You are on some weird shit roy, and i want some....

Can we go back a step? What size semis are you trying to fit to your nugget, and how mangled are you willing to make your guards?

LOL, was tired when posted thread. I want a matching set of wheels. After farkign around with so many sets the past 12 months looking for brake and guard clearance, this is what i have decided i can run without too much stuffing aroudn with guards.

Front. 17 x 9 +30, R33 GTR rims can be used and guards easily lipped to clear them. For the rears my old 17x9.5 +38 were almost perfect for the rear. Again , a little lipping and rolling of guards it would have plenty of clearance

I want to run 245/17 front tyres and 255/17 rear tyres. Ideally want to run the same set of rims, but i cant find anything that is forged and in the sizes i am after. Looks like i will grab the first set of rears i can find (TE37, LM GT4, RPF1 etc, plenty of choices) and run R33 GTR rims on the front.

I have a set of 17 x 9 +20 which i think will be ok on the rear but front isnt going to play ball. But at least this means i can run 245 all round and rotate tyres based on wear...lol but i would prefer the 9.5" out back and 255 tyre

LOL, was tired when posted thread. I want a matching set of wheels. After farkign around with so many sets the past 12 months looking for brake and guard clearance, this is what i have decided i can run without too much stuffing aroudn with guards.

Front. 17 x 9 +30, R33 GTR rims can be used and guards easily lipped to clear them. For the rears my old 17x9.5 +38 were almost perfect for the rear. Again , a little lipping and rolling of guards it would have plenty of clearance

I want to run 245/17 front tyres and 255/17 rear tyres. Ideally want to run the same set of rims, but i cant find anything that is forged and in the sizes i am after. Looks like i will grab the first set of rears i can find (TE37, LM GT4, RPF1 etc, plenty of choices) and run R33 GTR rims on the front.

I have a set of 17 x 9 +20 which i think will be ok on the rear but front isnt going to play ball. But at least this means i can run 245 all round and rotate tyres based on wear...lol but i would prefer the 9.5" out back and 255 tyre

Think ahead a little further Roy. I went through the same issues you are currently dealing with in regards to tyres for a gtst.

I wont go in to the thought process that led me to where i currently am but it worked.

I now run 17x9 all round with 255 x35x17 all round.

the benefits are obvious, I can share the wear to a greater degree by having 4 tyres the same.

And..More importantly. Skylines are big heavy fronted jew nosed bugga when it comes to weight distribution. Always fighting understeer and premature front tyre wear etc. By bringing the fronts to the same size as the rears it made a marked difference to the way the car handles.

I am going to take it a step further before next seasons time attack series and swap out to 18's and maybe around 275/285 rubber.

35 profile? So you are still running road tyres as i was not aware of a semi that comes in such a low profile?

Interesting point, but my car has never struggled for understeer, the way i have it set up it really is a tad oversteery if anything

Yeah my bad Roy, The 17 inch dunlops are 40. The new rsr federals are a 35 tho. Keen to try them as they look a real step up from the earlier model which was a capable all round tyre but no match for the more dedicated track rubber like the dunlops, bridgestones etc.

troy, you can go 33 GTR all round and run a 245 on the fronts and a 255 on the rears. the 255s still go 'ok' on the 9. that is providing you can fit the +30 9s on the back with the 255 (i think you can). I just hate it when I can't "fiena" the wheels I want. lol. put the can down before posting!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...