Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Strangest thing just happened to me on the way home from work! Was cruising about 60-70kph on a straight road (had music on quite loud).

Anyways the car just dies, and slowly comes to a stop.....

Tried to start it back up, and the starter motor turns, but it wont start!! All the electrics are working, air con still on so I figured the battery was fine.Got my mechanic mate to come help me out, he checks everything in the engine bay everything seems fine. Fuel is pumping. This is where things get interesting.

Attempt to start the car again - nothing!

Pulled out the ecu harness, waited then reconnected. Then attempt to start the car again - nothing!

A couple mins later, as a last ditch effor, we get our jumper cables out. Connect it up and bam !!! It starts!!

Having said that...

1) if it was a battery issue, why on earth would my car just die like that while cruising?

2) why would all the electrics be working, starter motor turning etc etc?

Not that i think it matters, but my battery is pretty small, I had the music up real loud with the bass crankin. So even if my alternator was fudged, doesnt explain why it would die mid-drive. What do you guys reckon?

EDIT: Car is an R34 GTT :)

Edited by Go Go
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248705-strangest-thing-just-happened/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Strangest thing just happened to me on the way home from work! Was cruising about 60-70kph on a straight road (had music on quite loud).

Anyways the car just dies, and slowly comes to a stop.....

Tried to start it back up, and the starter motor turns, but it wont start!! All the electrics are working, air con still on so I figured the battery was fine.Got my mechanic mate to come help me out, he checks everything in the engine bay everything seems fine. Fuel is pumping. This is where things get interesting.

Attempt to start the car again - nothing!

Pulled out the ecu harness, waited then reconnected. Then attempt to start the car again - nothing!

A couple mins later, as a last ditch effor, we get our jumper cables out. Connect it up and bam !!! It starts!!

Having said that...

1) if it was a battery issue, why on earth would my car just die like that while cruising?

2) why would all the electrics be working, starter motor turning etc etc?

Not that i think it matters, but my battery is pretty small, I had the music up real loud with the bass crankin. So even if my alternator was fudged, doesnt explain why it would die mid-drive. What do you guys reckon?

EDIT: Car is an R34 GTT :)

i would say its electrical.......im not a professional auto electrician..........

but generally what happens is.....

when your car is off....whatever you turn on.....fan, radio lights etc.........it uses the battery......

but when the car motor is running...it should transfer to the Altenator...which produces electricity via magnetic fields..(thats why you see copper coils through the fins in altenator) so all devices your using including the motor running is supplied by the altenator. and the altenator should also charge the battery.

unless you were running on your battery only and the altenator stuffed.......

look just take it to an auto electrician.....NOt just any dodgy mechanic.....

and with a few tests with the multi-meter.....they should tell you whats not working

Hi guys thanks for the responses so far! :)

So how would a drained battery and stuffed alternator cause my car to shut down mid drive?

My R31 did this, brilliant Nissan engineers decided to put the "ALT" globe in the dash into the circuit. The solder joints just broke again so now my alternator does not work unless it "self-excites" ie. car hits 3500 or 4K RPM.

Until then my volt meter sits around 8-10volts. EDIT: in car volt meter, its not perfectly accurate but it tells me if the alternator is running or not :)

On the above, yes, my R31 starting running rough and stalled after been jump started (got about 5-6mins up the road) and driving it with the alternator effectively turned off (I didn't know about the self exciting thing back then ;)).

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages.

If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off.

When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking.

Check your alternator out, and all connections.

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages.

If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off.

When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking.

Check your alternator out, and all connections.

I've checked my alternator, seems fine. All connections and wiring seem O.K.

Is it possible there is faulty wiring in my stereo and is draining too much power for the alternator?

what size Amplifiers are you running to power the whole sound system ? I mean if its one really huge MoFo

of a sound system then you could be using more power than the alternator is capable of putting out. When

you drive the car at Nightime does the Bass dimm the headlights and inst cluster lights to the Beat ?

If you have a multi meter, check across the battery terminals at idle and with revs, should be 13-14volts for both.

Also check the field (f tab-wire on alt) should be @ 12 constant.

If you get those readings at the battery and field you're alt is a ok.

Just clear up some mis-imformation

but when the car motor is running...it should transfer to the Altenator...which produces electricity via magnetic fields..(thats why you see copper coils through the fins in altenator) so all devices your using including the motor running is supplied by the altenator. and the altenator should also charge the battery.

The alt charges the battery, the car-engine-acc ect draw power from the battery...very simple

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
×
×
  • Create New...