Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I seem to have some serious problems with traction on a wet day. I have a NA R33 1993 AWD skyline. I bought it not too long ago, the steering response feels bad. My tyres seem to start to turn after i move the steering wheel about 1-2 inches, feels rusty. Anyhow didnt seem to be a problem when i bought it, but on wet days (which i recently found out) it seems to lose traction and go side ways when i accelerate from a stop.(even at normal and sometimes at relative slow acceleration). I dont seem to have any problems with turning at a relatively fast speed on turns tho (wet day). Today, i acclerated normally and it moved side ways... then when i regained traction and accelerated it did it again (wet day). Looked like a damn fool =( . Any ideas on what my problem is? (ps. tyres/steering wheel moves abit when driving on 2 different surfaces at the same time, even on painted arrows) Thanks.

Edited by Januss
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248711-driving-problems/
Share on other sites

mabey check tyre pressures, or has it been a while since it rained - the longer between downpours makes it slippry'er, or just that you have grown more confident since it was new you are giving it a bit more of the right foot. Oh, and you will notice the difference with each wheel on different surfaces - its a friction thing.

if you are worried about it, get the suspension checked out by a specialist, mabey get a wheel allignment while you are there

^^^+1 Good Post

Susp'n Specialists are there for reasons such as yours. If you're on a tight budget, you can get a 24 point check quite cheaply (even if they shock you by overstating certain problems). Just take some 'shockies' and 'dampers' for your emotions rather than tissues eh?

Tez

yes i agree get ur susp checked asap. there could be a tie rod or something very loose under there... and might let go at the wrong time. sounds like your front and rear alignment is way out..

Yeah, when i think about it... it probably is the alignment, the last mechanic i brought it to he said that he cant seem to align the car properly.. and lol i do know that different surfaces with different frictions will cause movements but considering that it was way worse than the commodore and toyota camry that i drove quite recently, i think i have a serious issue... A good picture would be that at the traffic lights a toyota corola can hit 40kms before i do, and if i tried to it would just skid sideways abit. Tyre pressure sounds bout right too.... bloody tyres are slightly bigger than the rims, the mechanic released some pressure saying that it'll make things better till i change the tyres. anyway, thanks guys... would've forgotten bout alignment if u guys didnt mention the possibility. =)

It would appear ATTESSA isn't working. As soon as the rear end loses traction - the only reason it would step sideways in the wet - the fronts should kick in and pull the car straight.

Also, how stiff is the rear suspension? Too stiff, and it will break traction extremely easily with the slightest level of dampness on the road.

(Maybe some lessons in throttle control wouldn't go astray either.)

even if the ATESSA wasnt working it would basically be a RWD car. and should not behave like this. take it to a specialist. not just to ur mech. i would even go as far as saying the car could have been in a prang and have a bent subframe if the guys cant align it properly.. u need to take it in cos it will let u down right when u need its handling to be predictable.

hey guys, fianlly found out the problem.. i brought it to beurepairs for an alignment but they told me it was aligned, turns out my front right tyre is moveable when they lifted it up....like as if it wasnt bolted on properly. Then went to ultratune and the mechanic told me the bit connecting the tyres to the car was screwed (i think he said the front axel or smth) and i had to get a new one... hence the skidding towards one particular direction. He deemed it dangerous to drive and im without a vehicle till i can find the part and replace it =/ then another problem arises... the mechanic told me that considering it was an import, he may not be able to find parts for it. Soo... anyone know of a good place to get these type of parts? (in melb, westrn subs)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...