Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248820-flared-guards-dilemma/
Share on other sites

As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Check this out

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27682

Nigel

Thanks Nigel, I just got off that site and now I think I know what i'm going to have to do.

PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT.

I'm guessing you would have to take it to an engineer after to have it approved?

Not sure if this will help.

There is a roller that you can use to flare the guards. I know it works on S13 and 180s.

Also Google "mud guard flares"

Edited by 66yostagea
if you're going to pay 2k just to get the gauards tubbed to fit them flares, you're better off seeing a fibreglasser and get them to custom make the flares to suit the rear of your car.

If it's to much trouble, just drive it down to Tassie, and sell it to me :-)

edit: Just noticed it's not a 240K, so I don't need it..

Nigel..

Edited by noddle

Does anyone know if the 240k coupe and the C210 coupe are the same in the rear wheel arch department. If so i'm probably going to have a go at following 240k convertibles procedure. It's just that when you look at how far up you need to cut. on the inside of the guard it looks like the skins are quite wide apart( at least 32mm).

Is the back edge molded to the body. ie does it follow the contours of the side of the car exactly? I'm assuming it does, which make my next suggestion a bit pointless, but maybe you could mount them lower down on the car and chop the ends off? Otherwise cutting the guards out is probably the only solution.

Yea Mr Camo, the guards fit neatly against the body contours and Racsovn that's exactly what I'd be doing along with lowered springs.I think I'll put the flares on the back burner till I have the money to mini tub it." Oh that's right , Mr Rud just gave me $2000. Convince my wife that half is mine and now only need $1000, Thinking eh!

I'm assuming by 240k you mean the c110. the C110 is a skyline, just like a c210. c210's are also known as 240k's

no, the rear guards are different.

Does the C210 has a "240K" badge on it ?, Since I haven't seen one up close, I though the C110 was the only "240K"

Nigel

Edited by noddle

Noddle, there's nothing on my car saying 240k,and I don't refer to it as a 240K. To me that's the C110. Saying that I've driven into tyre, suspension, and automotive workshops and they've all refered to it as a 240K. I tell most people it's a C210 78 skyline, it's easier that way

Decided to go ahead with filling in some of the arch. I've fixed some light tin to the rear of the guard and I'll fibreglass over it. I'm still going to heat the arches and knock them out 20mm if possible." I just wanna get these guards on"

Will post a pic soon.

The first photo you posted looks pretty similar to how my C110 looked before I chopped into it. You only need to cut the rear qtr just above where the bottom of the frp arch goes to, run a pen along the bottom of the arch, angled a little upwards and it will show nearly exactly how much will need to come off.

The amount of time it will take you with the filling & fibreglass will be similar to doing the welding & cutting of the arch.

I cut the front guards a lot higher than the rears, this was due to the gap that was appearing the higher you cut in the rears. With all the photos I've seen of lowered C210's I'd guess that they have a very similar depth wheel well to the C110 so it should be possible to cut them up. If you could take some shots of the inside of the C210 well I'd have a better idea.

Cheers Andrew

post-25281-1229423098_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430816_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430997_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431146_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431456_thumb.jpg

I've got the next 2 days off and I'm going hard at my flares. The rear ones are going to be about 2 inches wider at the top once i've fibreglassed them. It may look a bit odd, but I'm just not prepared to cut into my arches at the mo. Maybe way down the track i'll order some more rear flares and do it all properly. i got offered some 15x8 mags today, they've got 235's on them, BUT he wants $1000 for them. The're off his 260z which he just sold. I've been told it'd be near impossible to find this size mag in 4 stud.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...