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definatly afm. get another one, or better yet, get a brand newy... there is one on ebay, brand new, $550, half of what you'd pay at nissan... or do what i did and get safc2 and a 300zx afm... brand new for $300 and the safc was $300...

the problem is... because its random, it has the potential to happen at the worst time... like overtaking or pulling out etc. and it will only get worse, it pays to get it fixed right, the first time. a second hand one could be on the way out aswell.

cheers

Linton

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um.. why not pull it out and clean it first with electronic contact cleaner ($10 from disk smith)

if it still does it re-solder the units electrodes... search on here for "AFM+SOLDER" to see how it's done.

it will cost a fair bit less than $550 (like $530 less) and will get the exact same result.

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Flux capacitor...

Bugger paying $550 for a new RB25 AFM when you can get the Z32 + loom plugs for like $200 - $300 if you look around. Then grab something like a PFC, or SAFC, and get it tuned. Then, it's all setup for future upgrades.

Definitely sounds like a sus sensor though, whether it be AFM or not.

Could be a bad TPS or CAS sensor or knock sensor also.

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also i took the car for a drive today and everytime it hit boost it cut out like it didnt want to boost, so i assumed loose piping but after 15 minutes of driving it boosted fine???

hey julz, i got this problem too. does it still rev up fine on half throttle? when your boost gauge is on 0?

and when on boost it struggles like crap.. but the boost gauge is still full? i think this is rich and retard mode..

(this is my issue)

or does the boost fully cut and u get a big jerk.. coz that could be a fuel cut.

(this is not my issue)

anyway will be watchin for the answer.. some ppl say could be coolant temp sensor, afm, o2 sensor..

i think there's a diagnostic mode u can put your ECU in to check the sensors.. give that a go (google search the sky is the limit- the skyline book of something)

tells ya how to do it.

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